Scientists have successfully regenerated the nearly extinct indigenous cotton variety of phuti karpas at Cotton Research Institute in Sreepur upazila of Gazipur, sparking renewed optimism for the preservation of the country’s traditional cotton and muslin heritage.
Once common in rural area, phuti karpas gradually disappeared due to climate change, shrinking agricultural land, and the dominance of high-yield modern cotton varieties. After years of research, collection, and conservation, scientists at Bangladesh Cotton Research Institute have succeeded in cultivating phuti karpas experimentally, marking a significant breakthrough in agricultural research.
Researchers said phuti karpas had faded from farmers’ memory over generations because of lower yields, higher production costs and changing cultivation practices. Using preserved seeds, scientists raised seedlings and planted them in several experimental plots. This year, the plants have bloomed naturally, demonstrating strong adaptability.
According to the researchers, the success could play a vital role in conserving indigenous cotton genetic diversity and supporting the development of new cotton varieties in the future.
Abdul Wahab, Cotton Agronomist at the research farm, said four phuti karpas varieties collected from Dinajpur, Bagerhat, Kapasia in Gazipur, and Chittagong Hill Tracts were planted on August 29 last year. Each variety consisted of 40 plants, many of which have now grown taller than an average human. “Although the fibre is short, it is exceptionally fine, strong and lustrous—making it ideal for producing muslin fabric.”
ANM Zahir Uddin, an official at the Cotton Research Centre, said conservation and expanded cultivation of phuti karpas would further accelerate the muslin revival project. He noted that commercial cultivation could open new prospects for domestic cotton production.
Ayub Ali, Chief Planning and Project Implementation Director of Bangladesh Handloom Board, said research is ongoing to improve the restored phuti karpas variety.
“At present, the cotton contains a higher proportion of seeds and lower fibre yield, and the plants grow up to 13 to 14 feet tall,” he said.
He added that research is being conducted to increase yarn production, enhance yarn strength, reduce fabric production costs and improve pre-weaving processes.
Under the first phase of the project to revive Bangladesh’s historic muslin-making technology, scientists have successfully restored phuti karpas cotton, muslin yarn production techniques, and muslin fabric itself.
From the next cultivation season, the farmers in Kapasia and Sreepur upazilas of Gazipur will receive incentives to cover production costs, while the government will purchase the cotton directly from them.
Ayub Ali said that modern muslin produced under the project is of higher quality than muslin made during the British colonial period. All current muslin fabrics are fully organic, made without artificial dyes and designed using naturally coloured cotton.
In the future, he said, muslin production technology will be transferred to private entrepreneurs, with training and technical support provided to spinners and weavers. Approximately 400 grams of phuti karpas cotton are required to produce a muslin cloth measuring about 18 feet in length.
During the first phase of the project, production costs for a single sari ranged from Tk 3 lakh–4 lakh for light designs, Tk 5 lakh–6 lakh for medium designs, and Tk 7 lakh–8 lakh for heavy designs. Costs have since been reduced by around 30 percent, with further reductions expected.
