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FROM A NOMAD’S DIARY

Chasing twilight at Arial Beel

As the post-monsoon waters recede, a twilight voyage to Sreenagar uncovers a thriving sanctuary of migratory birds, floating agriculture, and a landscape facing the quiet threat of urban encroachment

Update : 13 Nov 2026, 09:45 PM

When it comes to rich wetland biodiversity, Bangladesh stands as a classic example of a delta blessed with numerous beels and haors. These vast landscapes act as an economic lifeline for millions of rural farming, fishing, and boatmen communities.

Over the years, I have visited many of these wetlands, but I had always missed Arial Beel—the country's third-largest beel, covering 136 square kilometers and located just an hour's drive south of Dhaka.

A recent autumn trip to Munshiganj’s Sreenagar finally brought me to this massive wetland.

Behind the writer stretches a serene landscape of Arial Beel, a vast wetland bathed in the warm, golden hues of a setting sun. The calm, glassy waters perfectly mirror the soft, hazy sky, where the sun hangs low on the distant horizon like a distinct, glowing orb—casting a peaceful evening ambiance over the entire scene.

Approaching a vantage point that offered a 360-degree view of the marshland, I encountered minivans heading in the opposite direction. They were loaded with water lilies harvested since early morning by local farmers, who collect them from boats to sell as a popular regional vegetable.

I was heading toward Gadighat, a primary gateway for travelers. By the time I reached the concrete Gadighat Bridge (locally also known as Tuta Bridge), twilight had already arrived. With its elevated concrete railings stretching across the canal docks, the bridge serves as the ultimate open-air viewing deck.

The timing was flawless. The retreating sun cast deep crimson hues across the horizon, while the sprawling, mirror-like waters below perfectly reflected the glowing evening sky.

An aerial lens captures Tuta Bridge (Gadighat Bridge) cutting across the expansive waterways of Arial Beel. Flooded by monsoon and post-monsoon waters, the entire wetland becomes a sea of emerald green, carpeted in water hyacinths and lily pads. This essential crossing arches over the central canal, tying together the rural fields and communities of Tuta and Gadighat.

Because it was the post-monsoon season, the water levels had begun to recede. While the height of the rainy season surely turns Arial Beel into an endless sea of lilies and isolated, island-like villages, the receding water is a different kind of blessing.

As the dry winter months approach, local farming communities take advantage of the fertile, exposed soil. This is when farmers sow seeds for sweet pumpkins, which Arial Beel is famous for. Cultivated in Munshiganj’s rich wetland soil, these massive, ribbed squashes easily weigh a hefty 10 and 30 kilograms. Local lore holds that Arial Beel regularly breaks records with single pumpkins tipping the scales at over 100 kilograms! From here, boats and trucks ship these giants en masse to feed the bustling markets of Dhaka.

Standing with hands clasped, the writer leans gently against a red-and-white striped roadside guide post. Positioned on a concrete bridge, this elevated vantage point offers a panoramic view of the sunset painting the sprawling marshland below.

Beyond agriculture, Arial Beel is a treasure trove of ecological biodiversity, serving as a vital resting and foraging ground for migratory ducks and diverse bird populations. Topographically, a beel is a large, saucer-shaped depression that accumulates rainwater, runoff, and river overflow. Unlike moving rivers or canals, beels feature relatively static freshwater.

Bangladesh is home to several other prominent beel ecosystems:

Chalan Beel: Located across Rajshahi, Pabna, Sirajganj, and Natore, it is Bangladesh’s largest beel. It transforms into an endless inland sea during the monsoons and a patchwork of rice and mustard fields in the winter.

Beel Dakatia: Situated in Khulna and Jessore, this is the country's second-largest beel, functioning as a major tidal deltaic wetland and aquaculture hub.

This traditional climate-adaptive method of floating agriculture (Dhap) thrives along the interior floodplains and natural canals of Arial Beel. The beds are securely anchored in the calm, deep depressions locally called dengas, where the current won’t sweep the floating structures away.

Baikka Beel: Falling within the Hail Haor ecosystem in Moulvibazar, this protected fish and bird sanctuary is one of the premier spots in the country for birdwatching.

Satla Beel: Located in Barisal, it is celebrated as an iconic "kingdom of water lilies" that draws extensive regional tourism.

As I wrapped up my visit and the sun dipped below the horizon, I reflected on how these wetlands sustain local livelihoods. From fishing and foraging lilies to cultivating giant pumpkins and utilizing traditional, climate-adaptive floating agriculture (Dhap) in calm depressions known as dengas, the ecosystem is highly productive.

Arial Beel is famous for its abundant sweet pumpkin harvests. Cultivated in Munshiganj’s rich wetland soil after the monsoons recede, these massive, ribbed squashes are shipped en masse to major kitchen markets across Dhaka.

However, as I departed, it was impossible to ignore how urbanization is slowly but surely creeping into the edges of the wetland. For the sake of both nature and the communities that rely on it, this encroachment needs to stop.

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