Chinese cuisine holds a special sway over the palates of Bengali people. Whether it's a celebration or a simple indulgence, Bengalis delight in steaming hot soups, crispy wontons, followed by fragrant fried rice or slurp-worthy hakka noodles paired with spicy chili chicken.
While traditional Chinese dishes might lean towards a milder flavour profile, our beloved Deshi version of the Chinese cuisine incorporates a symphony of spices alongside basic Chinese ingredients, sauces, crafting a fusion that tantalizes the taste buds.
In the 80’s and 90’s Dhaka scene, going out for a fancy dinner or lunch most times meant going to a Bangla-Chinese restaurant, like the popular Midnight Sun, Chillies, Lilati, Xinxian to name a few.
But how did this blend of Chinese food with Bengali preferences come about? The history of Indo-Chinese cuisine is as flavorful as its taste.
The saga of Indo-Chinese cuisine traces back to the 17th century when Chinese immigrants first set foot in Kolkata. Among them was Tong Ah Chew, India's pioneer Chinese immigrant, who arrived laden with tea and secured land from Governor-General Warren Hastings to establish the region's inaugural refined sugar factory. The British, eyeing an opportunity to break the West Indies' monopoly, saw potential in this venture to bolster the East India Company's earnings across the subcontinent.
Although the sugar factory venture faltered, it paved the way for Chinese settlers to establish roots in Kolkata. As the tannery industry flourished in the city, a wave of Chinese labourers migrated, seeking employment opportunities. The influx surged in the early 20th century as many fled China amid the civil unrest sparked by the Japanese invasion. Among the arrivals were Cantonese carpenters, Hakka tanners, dentists, and laundrymen, diversifying Kolkata's cultural landscape.
Chinatowns began to emerge, particularly in the Teritti Bazar and Tangra neighbourhoods, dotted with Chinese eateries catering to the growing community. However, the authentic Chinese fare failed to captivate Bengali palates, deemed too bland for local tastes. To adapt, chefs ingeniously infused the food with local spices like green chili, garam masala, corn starch, and monosodium glutamate, alongside traditional Chinese sauces, vinegar, and black pepper, creating a tantalizing fusion that resonated with Bengali sensibilities.
Ingredients such as choy sum and Sichuan pepper gave way to local substitutes like capsicum, cabbage, and black peppercorn, while meats like lamb and pork were replaced by chicken, prawns, or fish, accommodating dietary preferences. Schezwan sauce, a fiery concoction of onions, ginger, garlic, Indian spices, and oil, hailing from Sichuan Province, became a staple in Indo-Chinese kitchens, lending its bold flavours to beloved dishes like manchurian chicken and hot and sour soup, which quickly became comfort food for Bengalis.
Thus emerged the stir-fried delights and savoury brown gravies thickened with cornstarch, along with the tangy, greasy delights of Schezwan-style Chinese cuisine, securing their place in Bengali foodies' heart.
