Almost every Bengali household has its own way of making Bengali food.
There is street food from Old Dhaka that every family raves about, regardless of whether you're from there or not.
So much so that restaurants have started offering food and ambience from there too, Bheja Fry in Dhanmondi has successfully done so.
“We were trying to recreate their (Old Dhaka's) street food and ambiance. You come here to indulge in that experience,” said Bheja Fry's Managing Partner Sabrina Hasib.
Food
The chicken paratha roll starter stuffed with chicken and mayonnaise and green chillies, and this roll riles your tastebuds with its creamy yet piquant texture to prepare you for the rest of the meal.
Served in clay pots, their traditional bhorta (mashed delicacies) platter includes alu (potato), begun (eggplant), tomato, chingri (prawns), and loitta shutki (dried Loitta fish).
Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka TribuneEach bhorta has its main ingredient shining through.
While all of these bhortas are stars in their own right and have a distinct fragrance that makes it both easy and familiar enough to recognize once they are placed in front of you, their chingri and loitta shutki deserve special mentions.
The chingri bhorta combines whole spices of coriander powder, and cumin, tempered with red chilies to give you the right amount to kick off that spicy aroma that tingles your nose buds, the lemon juice hits you after that first morsel. You relish every bite after that first one.
While shutki is an acquired taste, this dried fish delicacy has a more subtle aroma than the other ones in the dried fish family.
Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka TribuneThe Loitta makes it easier to experiment if it is your first time trying shutki.
The spice still has a simmering smell stimulated with brinjal and miscellaneous fresh vegetables that will make you salivate.
For shutki, if one has perfected the mesh with an enticing aroma that does not put you off, they win half the battle right there and win this bhorta did.
From the other classic bhortas, their tomato bhorta is also a must-try as the tomatoes make you appreciate the tarty flavour, and you really get to take in the freshness of these fruity vegetables mixed with a hint of spicy kick, of course,
Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka TribuneOur last recommendation is always to pair bhortas with rice, as you will not be able to reap the benefits of gorging on a bhorta platter otherwise.
Trust us, making a morsel with steamed rice and any one of these bhortas is promising yourself a good flavorful bite.
Their beef khichuri is another go-to dish with a memorable achar ( mango pickle) tang you crave after the first bite.
The marination of the pungent gravy with the pickle works so well that you forget that these are separate ingredients.
While the whole spices create a whirlwind of a thick marinade, the scent of the pickle takes it to a whole different level.
Nowadays, achari beef is expected in khichuri.
For this specific one however, the thick consistency of that gravy seamlessly fuses into the softened meat and makes for an even more mouthwatering khichuri encounter.
You are served with sprinkled fried onions, two diced onions, and limes, and this Bengali favourite tastes as good as it looks.
This khichuri does not disappoint you; you will return for seconds.
The price for a meal at Bheja Fry ranges from Tk50 to Tk1,100, excluding VAT.
Ambiance
As you enter the premises, the rustic, quaint eatery with an outdoor space instantly wins your heart.
The green-carpeted floors camouflage with the leafy archway at the entrance that leads you to a glass door opening to a vibrant rickshaw-paint printed wall boasting pictures of quintessential scenes from old Bengali movies in a background that is vigorously dominated in red, yellow, and orange hues, adding to the emotional chaos of the space.
The chairs are a toss-up between red, yellow, green, and white, complimenting the walls.
Challenges
Opened in 2017, Bheja Fry's momentum helped them pick back up right where they left things during the Covid-19 pandemic in March 2020.
“It did slow down because of Covid, but Bheja Fry was always very popular in Dhanmondi, and the fact that we had an open space helped us pick up faster,” said Hasib
This popular restaurant goes through a constant menu overhaul, according to Hasib.
“There were more finger foods before, while the bhorta platter is new. Every 3-4 months we try to introduce something new,” she also said
Current inflation hikes have impacted them. However, they have to be mindful of how much they increase their prices, according to Hasib.
Verdict
If you want your Old Dhaka cravings of parathas, chaaps, and bhortas met, with a fleeting feeling of those streets thanks to the vibrant walls without ever having to travel to Old Dhaka, visit Bheja Fry in Dhanmondi, and have your mind blown, and satiate your taste buds.
