Dhaka lacks representation of indigenous food and culture, but that’s starting to change. Following the example set by Hebaang, restaurants like CHT Culinary are stepping up to serve the rich culinary heritage of Bangladesh's indigenous communities. They aim to showcase both the commonalities and unique aspects of these cultures, which make up a significant part of the country's minority population.
"Even though the ingredients are similar, those sourced from the hills have a distinct taste and aroma. Plus, unlike typical Bangladeshi cuisine, we don’t use a lot of spices in our cooking," explained Jay Marma, head chef at CHT Culinary.
Food
We sampled a variety of their specialities, including mundi (noodle soup), mixed fish hebaang, Thankuni pata-tomato bhorta (pennywort leaves-tomato mash), shim er bichi dal (bean sprout lentil), and bamboo shoot curry.
We started our lunch with a bowl of mundi, a hearty noodle soup traditional to the Marma ethnic group. The broth, subtly flavoured with chillies and containing 15 different vegetables, was delightful.
The standout feature was the use of rice noodles. Mildly seasoned and garnished with a wedge of lime, the soup was comforting and satisfying. The grilled chicken added a smoky flavour, making the dish even more enjoyable. Mundi is perfect for monsoons, offering a balanced sour-spicy taste. Remember to squeeze in the lime for an extra tangy kick!
Next, we tried the mixed fish hebaang, which featured a Rui (rohu) fish fillet wrapped in a banana leaf. The fish was cooked to perfection, marinated in whole spices, and had a delicious umami flavour. Served hot with rice, the softness of the fish was remarkable. The leafy green hues from the banana leaf added a visually appealing touch to the dish, which melted in our mouths.
We then moved on to the meticulously prepared bamboo chicken, marinated with minced garlic, onions, and red chillies. The smoky flavour came from burning and wetting the bamboo, allowing the chicken to cook inside before being served straight from the bamboo. The unique cooking method infused the chicken curry with a distinct smokiness.
Following the chicken, we enjoyed the simple yet flavorful shim er bichi dal (bean sprout lentil). It added a delightful thickness and texture to the lentil dish. We also had the Thankuni pata-tomato bhorta (pennywort-tomato mash) with shutki (dried fish).
The bhorta was fresh, aromatic, and mildly pungent due to the pennywort and dried fish, making it a genuinely delightful dish, especially for those who appreciate the taste of dried fish.
Finally, we completed our meal with bamboo shoot curry mixed with small prawns. Despite its similarity in taste to the bean sprout lentil, it was still warm and satisfying.
We rounded off our meal with Rosela cha, a tea made with shukhe gundhal phool (hibiscus flower) and honey. While the tea had a delightful tang, the addition of honey made it a bit too sweet for our liking.
Ambience
Located in Mirpur, CHT Culinary is a small quaint restaurant exuding simplicity in its furniture and decor, with food served on a traditional bamboo tray.
They’ve kept both traditionalism and simplicity alive in the space available to them, letting the ingenious culture and food speak for themselves.
Challenges
Opened in 2022, CHT Culinary had inconsistent guests owing to the post-pandemic condition of the service sector and because of where they are situated.
“People would come but not consistently, initially, it was because people didn't really go to restaurants at that time, and then we figured it was because of where we were located, in a corner, way inside,” said founder Jumman Chakma.
Having to source ingredients from the hill tracts while combating inflation has been a big challenge for the restaurant.
“Most of our ingredients are from the hill tracts and rangamati and the prices keep increasing because of inflation. It's hard to source the ingredients, that too, at reasonable prices,” added head chef, Jay Marma.
Verdict
Give their mundi, the soulful noodle soup, a try—especially in this weather. Don't miss out on their shim er bichi dal and bamboo chicken either. You'll be amazed at how delicious and uniquely different indigenous food can be!
