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90's Dhaka: Nostalgic flavours of deshi Chinese and Thai

Situated in Uttara, this establishment is dedicated to transporting you back to the 1990s with a genuine touch of Bangladeshi tradition

Update : 26 Oct 2023, 08:58 PM

Since the early 1990s, Dhaka’s favourite dining experience has been either Chinese or Thai food. 90s Dhaka in Uttara capitalized on that nostalgia offering some of the best of the decade on a platter. 

The food pays tribute to the Bangladeshi take on Chinese and Thai flavors, and the restaurant's ambiance also contributes to the nostalgic atmosphere with an exclusive playlist of popular Bangladeshi 90's songs.

MD Abduallah al Amin, the CEO of 90's Dhaka, expressed his motivation for this venture, saying: "I wanted to bring back that 90's vibe, as it holds a special place in my heart from my childhood."

Food

Their Thai clear soup takes you on a nostalgic journey to the flavors of your childhood in Dhaka. It's a rich, slightly tangy broth infused with lemongrass, eggs, soy sauce, ketchup and a hint of green chili. All these ingredients combine to create a vibrant orange broth that's sure to delight your taste buds.

On their menu, you'll find the Shonali Chicken, prepared in the beloved 1990s Dhaka style. MD Abduallah al Amin said these days most restaurants serve broiler chicken instead, making the “golden” fried chicken from the past a rarity. 

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This dish strives to capture that classic flavour by marinating the meat in a blend of onion paste, black pepper, salt, Kashmiri chili powder, and yogurt. The chicken is deep-fried to achieve that signature golden, crispy exterior while remaining tender inside. Despite the slightly salty taste, it doesn't overpower the genuine flavours of the dish.

Their thalis offer a diverse range of combinations from "Bengali Chinese" and "Bengali Thai" cuisine. The one we tried included garlic prawns, Szechuan chicken, dried beef chili, mixed vegetables, and fried rice. 

The standout dishes on the thali were the expertly marinated garlic prawns and the flavorful Szechuan chicken, cooked with a hint of heat and a medley of onions, capsicum, garlic, vinegar, and soy sauce. The mixed vegetables were delightful, with a mild flavour and tender texture, despite minimal seasoning.

If you grew up in Dhaka and have fond memories of deshi Chinese and Thai cuisine, 90's Dhaka will transport you back to those days. One suggestion is to include a selection of sauces as condiments, especially for the fan-favourite fried chicken.

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The prices at 90's Dhaka range from Tk275 to Tk980, including VAT, with one combo exception priced at Tk1,070.

Ambience

Situated in Uttara, this establishment is dedicated to transporting you back to the 1990s with a genuine touch of Bangladeshi tradition. They've carefully crafted the ambiance with yellow walls adorned with painted auto rickshaws, letterboxes, cassette tapes, a white wheelbarrow embellished with flowers, and a soundtrack of beloved Bangladeshi music from that era. 

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The presence of vintage posters showcasing classic Bangladeshi films and the inviting low ottoman-style seating conjure the spirit of a more leisurely and relaxed period.

Challenges

Two years have passed since Dhaka first opened its doors in October 2021; as a business operating so soon after the pandemic, lowering prices has been their greatest struggle.

"The cost of everything has gone up, and it's getting harder to serve high-quality meals using fresh ingredients," Amin complained. Six months ago, they increased pricing on the menu while insisting that everything still remains reasonably priced. 

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He continued: "Even though we increased our prices six months ago, we have still tried to minimise the increase, and our profit margin is very low but we have no other option."

Amin said that the people of Uttara aren't seeking the nostalgic vibe, and that the people of Dhanmondi would love it more, but those who appreciate the attempt to recreate that ambience appreciate it very much.

Verdict

If you have a hankering for "Bangla Chinese" or "Bangla Thai" fare, make sure to pay a visit to 90's Dhaka. Don't miss the chance to savour one of their Thaalis, which offers a delightful assortment of signature dishes from Bangladeshi Chinese and Thai culinary traditions. 

When you do drop by, be sure to sample the shonali chicken, garlic prawns, and their selection of vegetables - they're truly worth it, and you'll admire the restaurant's dedication to reviving the essence of simplicity. Moreover, we find their prices quite reasonable.

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