While Indian food is a staple in Dhaka, its regional variations are yet to be unearthed and appreciated for what they are.
Dhaka's love for Masala Dosa isn't unknown, but it definitely is our rendition, and sometimes far from authenticity.
“People have a misconception of what South Indian food should be like in Dhaka. Maybe because they've first tried it in the north,” said Kapara Kafe's manager Safiul Azam
Kapara Kafe, a small corner cafe opposite the Lakeshore Hotel in Banani, brings in the real taste of South India with its traditional Bangalorean recipes.
Food
Their Bisi Belle Bath is a rice dish that has lentils, Bisi Bele Bath powder, slit red chilies, coriander, cinnamon, and tamarind water.
The tamarind water is used for the powder that is made specifically for the belle bath.
Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka TribuneThe dish elevates the spicy flavors that the south is known for.
The red chillies blend well with the tamarind water to add a spicy twist to the buttery combination of rice and lentils.
While this dish will most definitely remind you of our homemade Khichuri (salty porridge), the addition of side condiments add a unique element to the meal.
Served with a side of chana (mixed savoury snack), and ghee (clarified butter)
The chana adds a crunch to the dish, whereas the ghee accentuates the rich flavours more and adds an enticing aroma you will swoon over.
The curd rice has rice and mango pickle along with herbs and then tempered with chillies.
Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka TribuneThis traditional dish has a texture that appeals to those with an acquired taste for simple sour food, incredibly thick curd.
The pickle really brings the dish together as it adds another flavour to the otherwise plain rice with curd.
Their Medu Vada, a South Indian staple, is deep-fried dough made with lentils and served with the necessary condiments of Sambar (vegetarian lentil stew) with okra and eggplant.
Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka TribuneIt is predominantly sour and yet tangy and is a great standalone dish.
The smooth coconut chutney is a delectable combination of sweet and spicy with a generous amount of coconut, chillies, ginger, and salt.
The Sambar combined with the vada offers a savory treat that can be the perfect blend of flavour but not thickened with heavy ingredients usually found in north Indian dishes.
Therefore, the tangy broth with the Vada is a light lunch option popular in Bangalore for its sour aftertaste.
Staying authentic to Bangalore's recipe, Kapara Kafe opted to keep it acidic to retain the original taste of Bangalore.
This chutney is perfectly savoury, and the natural sweetness from the coconut isn't overpowering, which makes it more enjoyable and organic.
Last but not least, their classic Masala Dosa is carefully prepared, and so is the stuffing of spiced potatoes.
The dosa itself was very soft, thin, and light, and while the filling is not oozing with spice, the simplicity is to be appreciated, and is a welcome change to the ones you usually eat.
However, you do miss the slight crunch on the exterior despite the careful preparation of the Dosa.
The price range for a meal at Kapara Kafe ranges from Tk150 to Tk400.
Ambience
The walls are charcoal black, whereas the floors are a contrasting light beige colour.
White chalked graffiti adorns the walls.
The simplicity of the decor matches the traditional food served by Kapara Kafe, as the spicy aroma permeates the quaint corner cafe.
Challenges
Opened in September 2020, the high rent forced the small business to shift to a smaller location to cope with inflation and the rising cost of production.
“We moved to a smaller place to be able to cope with everything,” said Azam
With a loyal customer base, the cafe is holding up well, even at a smaller location.
“Our regulars are mostly Indians who appreciate the authenticity, and we trusted that they would still be there if we moved,” he added.
They have not changed the prices yet as they are developing a brand value for authentic south Indian food in Dhaka.
“We'll wait to expand. We want people to be able to taste our food first,” said Azam.
Verdict:
Kapara Kafe's Sambar reminds us of authentic South Indian food and is a welcome change to the dominating north Indian dishes we know and love.
This restaurant should be a 9 out of 10 for introducing new flavors to Dhaka and diversifying our options.
Try out Dhaka's newest South Indian restaurant to get a taste of authentic Bangalore dishes with lots of ghee.
