The popularity of Comilla’s roshmalai has spread in and outside the country due to its unique taste. Even though roshmalai is available in almost all the sweet shops across the country, there is something exclusive about Matri Bhandar’s roshmalai. The store is located in Manoharpur, just two hundred yards from Kandirpar, the heart of Comilla city. Even two former US ambassadors to Bangladesh rushed to Comilla to taste the authentic Comilla’s roshmalai. Although the fame of local sweets began almost a century ago, it has not lost its charm even today. Even though there are many Matri Bhandar stores across the country now, people still throng the oldest tin-shed shop in Manoharpur.
And there are queues of customers outside the shop every day.
Roshmalai from Kheer Bhog
Mir Ahsanul Kabir, researcher of history and traditions of Comilla, said that at the beginning of the 19th century, local sweets producers used pure cow milk to make curd, matha, butter and ghee in Goalpatti, east of the city's Rajganj market. At one time, curd sweets were also made there. In 1930, Khanindra Sen Gupta and Manindra Sen Gupta, from Brahmanbaria, established a confectionary shop named Matri Bhandar in Manoharpur.
There, they first started making chickpea sweets, which were sold under the name of Kheer Bhog. However, after the Liberation War, its shape was changed and was named as roshmalai. At one time, it became a brand.
After the death of the two brothers, Khanindra's son Shankar Sen Gupta took charge of Matri Bhandar in 1940. After Shankar Sen's death in 2018, Anirban Sen Gupta became the owner of the store and is still operating it.
Anirban Sen Gupta said his grandparent took inspiration from a hindu temple and named their shop Matri Bhandar.
Specialty
In Manoharpur, the air around the roshmalai factory has a lovely aroma. The artisans are busy almost all the time. Some are making milk chicks by hand and some are boiling the milk on the stove. Some are carrying warm roshmalai to a shed and packaging it.
Tapan Chandra Dey, head chef at the factory, said that he has been working in Matri Bhandar institution for about 41 years. Currently there are 25 artisans and they do not compromise on quality.
Mahmudul Hasan Nazim, a buyer from Dhaka, said: “If you want to get authentic roshmalai then you have to come to Manoharpur's Matri Bhandar.”
Another customer Monika Rani Karmakar said there is no satisfaction in buying roshmalais that is not from Matri Bhandar.
Mamunur Rashid, president of Comilla Sweets Producers Association, said: “Our association has 32 listed members in the city. But there are more than fifty sweets shops. Almost all of them make roshmalai. Their taste is also very close to Matri Bhandar’s roshmalai. But Matri Bhandar's roshmalai is still preferred by customers.”
Atiq Ullah Khokon, president of Comilla Shop Owners Association, said that Comilla's Khadi and roshmalai have international market standards. In this case, the Ministry of Commerce and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs should come forward and take some initiatives for exporting roshmalai. It will increase foreign currency reserve as well as create more employment in the country.”
Matri Bhander's roshmalai under siege from copycats
The reputation of the traditional roshmalai of Comilla is under threat from cheaper imitations produced by dishonest businessmen who have set up many shops in the town to capitalise on its popularity.
They are using the name Matri Bhandar by adding a word or two with it. Although there is no shop called Matri Bhandar in the main city, there are hundreds of shops with Matri Bhandar highlighted on their signboards throughout the district and on the highways. While Matri Bhandar's roshmalai is sold for Tk350 per kg, these cheap variety roshmalai are being sold at Tk 220.
What the authorities say
Anirban Sen Gupta, the current owner of the store told Dhaka Tribune that their sweets have no competitors anywhere in the country as it has maintained its own quality since the beginning. Even after obtaining higher education from Dhaka University, he has taken the helm of this shop in order to protect the family tradition. He said that due to the quality, customers are flocking to the shop. He said that his shop sells about 1500 kg of roshmalai daily. However, the demand for it increases during various festivals.
