Many women are looking forward to traditional hand loom saris from Tangail ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr, but the artisans behind the craft are suffering financial hardships.
Poorly paid weavers of Pathrail Taat Palli in Delduar upazila have dwindled in numbers, resulting in the shutdown of around 4000 handlooms in the last four years.
Weavers say, currently around 510 handlooms are operated in the Palli, whereas not so long ago, over 4,500 handlooms were in operation.
Profits are unequally distributed between the Mahajans (traders who gather and sell saris) and weavers, and on top of that, Indian sari imports are contributing to the decline in weavers and handlooms in the Palli.
Once solvent weavers and established businessmen are now facing deep financial hardships.
Local weavers, Jagannath, Sachin, Gopinath, and Daman, owned 52, 20, 10, and 20 handlooms respectively, operated by weavers employed by them around 3-4 years ago.
Now they are on the brink of poverty with huge debts. They can no longer afford employees and the market is dominated by Mahajans and other affluent traders.
Jagannath owned a house on 0.21 acres which he sold to a friend in Kolkata to pay off his debts. He still lives in the house but is worried for his family as the current owner whom he sold the house to, may decide to sell the house anytime.
He said: "Now I have four handlooms but can afford to operate only one. My weekly family expenses are around Tk1200 but I only earn Tk600 a week after paying my employee’s salary."
With rising debts, the thought of not being able to pay back the borrowed money on time frustrates Jagannath.
Sachin Rajbongshi's 0.11 acre of land has become 0.03 acres in the last three years, since he sold off most of it to pay off debts.
Elderly weaver Sachin earns Tk1600 per week, weaving two saris himself on his only operating handloom, which barely supports his family of five.
Daman Rajbongshi, once a successful weaver, had to start a teastall and his son now works for another weaver.
Earlier, weavers would raise the pay of employees who worked day and night ahead of Eid, with additional bonuses and clothing. This is not the case anymore, says a handloom worker.
According to the Bangladesh Labour Act 2006, amended in 2013, every weaver, owner, and trader, must have a separate license and their payment and work time data must also be recorded.
The law also says each handloom worker must be allowed to work in shifts and be paid double for overtime, including allowances for health.
Poor weavers in Pathrail Taat Palli once had an organization named Pathrail Taat Association to safeguard their interests. That is now defunct.
Tangail Sari Traders Association President Raghunath Bosak said: "The export of local hand loom saris needs to increase in order to save the industry and its weavers. Indian sari imports need to be reduced as well.
"Around 300,000 saris from Tangail will be distributed this month to wholesalers and retailers across Bangladesh for the Eid market," added Raghunath.
Talking to customers in Pathrail, this correspondent found buyers from all over Bangladesh had come to buy hand loom saris at low prices, much to the loss of the weavers and craftsmen who make these saris.
