I’ve been following the op-ed pages of a few papers for the last few weeks, and all I’ve seen is people complaining about the endless traffic, the sea-like water-logging, the monstrous mosquitoes and, generally, every negative aspect of life in the city. And yes, since I have eyes, I agree that these problems do exist in Dhaka.
But being a “glass is half full” type of person, I have decided to point out all the positives in our metropolis. Having said that, I must admit, or rather, confess, that this article is going to be biased -- and very much so. This is due to the fact that Dhaka is my hometown, and by default, my favourite city.
I have two major objectives: First, to remind the residents of Dhaka how beautiful the city really is. And second, to inform non-residents of the good things about our hometown. Let us then, take a ride through Dhaka.
The first thing that makes Dhaka awesome is its spectacular charm. There are so many classy things about this city. Firstly, the rickshaws. Yes, they may seem to you the worst thing on God’s green earth when you’re driving, but that is sure to change when you ride one. I mean, no wonder there are no superheroes in Bangladesh, because all of us feel like one when we cut through the air with the wind on our faces, riding a rickshaw.
Secondly, let’s say you venture into the old part of Dhaka in one of these magnificent vehicles. You will be sure to find some sort of celebration going on. Dhakaiyas are the biggest party animals on the planet. They celebrate weddings, circumcisions (of people they barely know!), football tournaments, eating contests, you name it. As you wander through the old, intricate building systems of puran Dhaka, you are certain to wonder what makes these people so happy, despite all of the problems that they face each day.
When you’re hungry after your trip to Old Dhaka, you can either choose to dine in one of the posh restaurants and five star hotels. Or, you can find a stall and experience the delicacies of the street. These include fuchka, chotpoti, shingaras, samosas, chops etc.
Need a drink to wash it all down? Look no further. Try the matha, labang, borhani, or the vast number of juices sold on the streets consisting of pineapples, sugarcanes, and watermelons. Besides the streets, the non-expensive option for food is biriyani. I’m pretty sure if there was anything such as food-off between the cities of the world, Dhaka would win hands down, mostly because of its biriyani.
To be habitable, every city needs patches of greenery. I will admit that Dhaka has very few of those. But there are still some places where we have lush green canopies. The obvious examples are the Botanical Gardens, Ramna Park, and Bolda Garden, but within the actual city itself, there are spots where you can find green, for example, near the Azimpur cemetery and Zia’s Mazar.
In the spring, all these places paint themselves red with krishnochura, accompanied by the yellow radhachura or shonalu. A Dhakaiya legend says that if you sit between a radhachura and a krishnochura in full bloom, anything you wish for will come true (derived from Hindu mythology). To add to the romanticism, Kokils (cuckoos) call out in regular intervals. Animals like monkeys, mongooses, and squirrels are also seen.
Our city, in a way, has a dual personality. Confused? Just wait for Eid. I bet no other city in the world sees such a drastic shift away from all the hustle and bustle to eerie quietness. Sometimes, Dhaka is called the city of mosques. I would like to disagree a bit, and say it is the city of prayer halls. I say this because, even though they are nowhere near the number of mosques, Dhaka has quite a few temples and churches scattered throughout it.
It is perhaps due to these houses of faith that Dhaka can support so many people, house so many problems and yet, be one of the fastest growing cities in the world, despite all the reports claiming it to be “not fit for human residence.”
The soul of Dhaka is its people, who dress in one colour and paint their streets during Bengali festivals, and give you that smile even if you don’t know them. They struggle through their daily lives but still return home happy. This is why I sometimes feel that Dhaka is actually a typical, traditional, Bengali woman personified. She houses us, feeds us, keeps us happy, and does everything to sustain us. Then, at the end of the day, accepts all the criticism of her faults with a smile.
