The Backyard Chef (TBC) was one of the pioneers in bringing Asian casual dining and Japanese cuisine to the Dhanmondi and Lalmatia neighbourhoods in 2015.
During this transitional period, the establishment faced challenges as local residents were initially hesitant about the new cuisine being offered in the area.
“People were sceptical, and many told me serving sushi in this area would be challenging, but they were happy we were doing something different,” said TBC owner Ahmed Jawad Rahman.
Almost a decade later, TBC shows that both sushi and the restaurant were here to stay. They offered an impressive variety of dishes, including three-cheese curry rice, TBC’s special bone marrow ramen, and sushi boats.
Due to their popularity, they are also opening a new branch in Uttara.
Food
Our appetizer round started with dynamite mussels. We thoroughly enjoyed the briny goodness of the mussels paired with the spicy, creamy richness of the dynamite sauce.
This rich sauce, made from mayonnaise, sriracha, and green onion, creates a delicious creamy blend. The deep orange hue slathered over the luscious mussels is both visually appealing and flavorful. However, the sauce was a bit overly salty, which detracted from the overall flavour profile.
Next, we tried enoki mushrooms with beef bacon. The flavours of both the enoki mushrooms and the beef were prominent in this dish, showcasing an intriguing combination that is well-liked worldwide.
However, their version felt somewhat incomplete because it was a bit drier than it needed to be, making it less memorable compared to the other dishes, which had more explosive flavours.
The three-cheese curry rice is full of surprises. Although the combination of curry spices and creamy cheese may seem unlikely, this Japanese take on a cheesy, savoury curry is not spicy. It features caramelized vegetables, a rich cheese sauce, and plenty of hearty chicken and rice, leaving us salivating at the deliciousness.
Served hot, this cheese sauce perfectly complements the curried veggies and chicken, with neither overpowering the other. The result is a balanced dish full of delectable flavours.
When we dug in for our first bite, a gorgeous golden yellow cheese pull strung along. The cheese sauce, which is made with heavy cream milk and bone broth, is stunning and effective.
The incredible caramelized vegetable marinade, which includes onions, celery, carrots, garlic sea salt, cheddar cheese, and butter works wonders.
While you may think that this dish may be heavy, owing to the use of cheese and butter, to our pleasant surprise, it was not. Instead, the dish felt lighter but equally satisfying and it was one of our top dishes of the day.
The bone marrow ramen was a showstopper. The bone marrow broth was light and salty, complemented by fresh house-made noodles that were al dente—retaining a firm bite and a slightly chewy yet slippery texture, tasting like a dream.
The opaque pale miso-curry broth had a sticky, savoury sesame paste, thinly sliced green onions, seasonal vegetables, and mushrooms, resulting in a well-balanced and robust flavour.
A soy-sauce-tinged soy egg and pieces of grilled tenderloin were generously scattered throughout the broth. The sweet and rich slithering taste of the marrow itself on the bone was outstanding as was the marrow flavoring of the broth, and was easily our top dish of the day.
The sushi boat was delicious and fresh, featuring an impressive variety of nigiri and maki with refined flavours. Although the portions were a bit larger than typical for sushi, the exceptional freshness and craftsmanship of the dishes set them apart and left a lasting impression on us.
We went for the lemon iced tea for our beverage and we must say that they have cracked the code for the proper amount of sugar-syrup and lemon ratio to make this iced tea as delightful as possible.
The price range for a meal is Tk350 to Tk2,500.
Ambience
TBC, located in Lalmatia, offers a cozy atmosphere. However, the space feels a bit cramped and narrow, suggesting that it could benefit from a larger area. The colourful cutlery and crockery are eye-catching, reminding diners that they are about to enjoy Asian cuisine, specifically Japanese food.
Challenges:
According to Rahman, since opening in 2015, TBC has always aimed to offer something unique in addition to being competitively priced. “People should not come to TBC simply because it is inexpensive, but also because we offer a range of different dishes. That was always a key concept for us,” he explained.
The staff was also given on-the-job training to help them gain fluency in Asian and Japanese cuisine.
“None of my staff members had any proficiency in Japanese cuisine, they were trained by us and I tried to teach them holistically that it's a craft,” said Rahman.
According to Rahman, the restaurant’s ethos is reflected in the fact that many of the ingredients are made from scratch at the establishment. “On some level, making them from scratch is somewhat more complex but we want to do things right,” He added.
Verdict
You do not need us to tell you to visit TBC if it's already one of your favourite spots to visit; nevertheless, a reminder to revisit is always welcome. The three cheese curry rice, bone-marrow ramen and the sushi boat are all must-haves. Considering the cuisine they serve, we do think that their price range is reasonable.
If you have not been to TBC in a while or have not been to TBC at all because you are not from the neighbourhood, now is the time to go. You can also visit the new branch in Uttara.
