More than 5,000 workers are employed in the Dekko Legacy Group’s factories in the Narsinghpur area of Ashulia. However, these factories were operational for only four days last month due to frequent worker protests.
Several world-renowned brands, including H&M, Inditex, Jack & Jones, Next, and Pull & Bear, source apparel from Dekko factories, which have the capacity to produce 2.5 million pieces per month. Despite the recent closures, operations have been running at full capacity since the beginning of this month.
Kalpon Hossain, managing director of Dekko Legacy, told the Dhaka Tribune that even after agreeing to all of the workers' demands, production was halted, forcing the factories to close.
“We held seven meetings with the labor representatives. After the seventh meeting, they finally agreed to return to work. Since then, there have been no further issues, and the factory's production activities are running at full capacity,” he added.
He also emphasized that law enforcement agencies, employers, and labor unions play a key role in restoring order in factories, expressing hope that the current stability will continue.
Ashulia-based AR Jeans Producers Ltd. and Lusaka Group factories faced similar issues. Speaking to the Dhaka Tribune, Md. Hafizur Rahman Sarker, chairman of Lusaka Group, noted that his factories were operational for only eight days last month due to the protests.
“Currently, our factories are operational, although efficiency and production capacity have been affected. We had to dismiss several management officials, and now some less skilled staff are handling operations,” he added.
AR Jeans Producers Ltd, a LEED-certified, top-rated green factory, narrowly avoided a serious arson attack, though its entrance gate and generator room were set on fire on September 29. Last month, the factory managed to stay operational for 18 days.
Nazmul Kabir, managing director of the factory, told the Dhaka Tribune that while the factory is now operational, tensions remain.
“We agreed to all 18 of the workers' demands, some of which were implicit in nature. We'll have to wait until December to assess the situation fully,” he said.
Kabir also praised the visible and strong presence of law enforcement, which has helped manufacturers feel more secure.
Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), noted that nearly 100% of the factories in major RMG industrial hubs in Savar, Ashulia, DMP, and Gazipur have been operational in recent days, thanks to the cooperation of all parties for the sake of the country’s economy.
He expressed hope that this trend would continue, as entrepreneurs have agreed to the workers' 18-point demands and have already begun implementing them.
United efforts accelerate confidence among manufacturers
The manufacturers said that the combined efforts of factory owners, the government, law enforcement agencies, and trade unions have boosted their confidence in keeping their factories operational.
BGMEA Director Mohiuddin Rubel told Dhaka Tribune that the collective commitment of all stakeholders has been crucial in building trust within the RMG sector.
“As the RMG sector involves everyone, the dedication of each stakeholder helped to restore confidence. The manufacturers sought support, and everyone—government, law enforcement, and trade unions—stepped in to help keep the factories running,” he said.
He also noted that groups with vested interests and anarchists, who sought to disrupt the sector, have been defeated, as such negative forces cannot prevail indefinitely.
“Over time, workers realized the influence of external agitators and vested interests. They avoided falling into their trap and returned to their workplaces,” Rubel added, emphasizing that manufacturers remain attentive to the legitimate demands of workers, recognizing them as the lifeblood of the RMG sector.
Stability must be sustained
The manufacturers emphasized the need to maintain stability at all costs, as the RMG sector is the lifeblood of the country’s economy.
Mohiuddin Rubel highlighted that ensuring security at industrial hubs must be the top priority.
“The jhut (fabric waste) business is one of the key drivers behind the involvement of outside agitators and vested interest groups. The jhut business and related recycling operations must be kept free from external influences,” he said.
He also stressed that those responsible for creating unrest in the sector should face strict legal action.
Kalpon Hossain noted that manufacturers must proceed with caution to counter the conspiracies of vested interest groups.
Nazmul Kabir expressed concern that some buyers are hesitant to source from the Ashulia zone, and steps must be taken to remove this negative perception.
“Additionally, many factories that benefited under the previous regime are located in Ashulia, and this poses a challenge, as these industrialists or their associates might still be active,” he added.
Earlier, on Wednesday, at the inauguration of the TCB Goods program for RMG workers at a factory in Gazipur, Labor and Employment Secretary HM Safikuzzaman emphasized that any unrest or misconduct in the garment factories must be addressed firmly, whether by workers or manufacturers.
He stated that those who vandalize factories or block roads will not be exempt from punishment, and manufacturers involved in wrongdoing will also face strict actions.
Asif Mahmud Shojib Bhuiyan, adviser to the Ministry of Labor and Employment, remarked that there had been a simmering discontent for 16 years.
“Outsiders also attempted to exploit this anger. However, we have successfully addressed the workers' 18-point demands. Despite the rampant corruption over the past 16 years, the RMG sector remains the backbone of our economy. We will take all necessary measures to keep the sector stable,” he added.
Buyers convinced, but worried
Kalpon Hossain mentioned that buyers consistently trust Bangladesh because it is the second-largest RMG exporter in the world.
"However, we must proceed cautiously, as any shift in orders could pose a significant risk for us. India and Pakistan remain major competitors, so ensuring security is a critical challenge," he added.
Mohiuddin Rubel emphasized that maintaining the safe and secure operation of factories is key to reassuring buyers.
"We need to focus on ensuring this to keep their confidence," he said.
Why the unrest
On August 5, after the ousting and subsequent flight of then-Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina due to a mass uprising, a sudden political power vacuum emerged, leading to instability in law and order.
During this period, RMG workers voiced several demands and grievances related to their working conditions, including issues like wage nonpayment, irregular increments, nonpayment for earned leave, and discrimination in certain factories, according to industry insiders.
Some factories also experienced local unrest stemming from political reasons, particularly those that had been politically empowered under the previous regime.
Amidst this turmoil, external agitators and a group of local BNP and AL leaders exploited the situation to gain control of the lucrative jhut (fabric waste) business, triggering a power struggle between rival factions.
Latest situation
On Thursday, nearly 100% of factories in the major RMG industrial hubs of Savar, Ashulia, DMP, and Gazipur were operational.
According to sources, four factories were closed that day: two in Savar and Ashulia, and two in the Gazipur area.
In Savar and Ashulia, 99.50% of the 397 factories remained operational. In Gazipur, 99.77% of the 871 factories were functioning, while in the DMP area, 100% of the 301 factories were operational.
Overall, 99.81% of factories nationwide operated normally, totaling 2,115 out of 2,119 factories.
