You may not be familiar with Multani Dera yet, but this new Pakistani restaurant is serving up some authentic mouth-watering kebabs and nehari.
Renowned for its Multani (Multan, a city in Punjab, Pakistan) specialities and recipes originating from Multan, Multani Dera beckons Dhaka residents to a tantalizing Pakistani feast. From the rich flavors of nihari to the succulent beef seekh stew and the delightful doli roti, this eatery promises a culinary journey to Pakistan right in the heart of Dhaka.
Asmita Faizah Hasan, having spent an extended period abroad, developed a discerning palate for various cuisines, particularly authentic Pakistani fare. Disheartened by the absence of such options in Dhaka, she took it upon herself to introduce the distinctive flavors of Pakistani cuisine to the capital.
Food
When asked to compare and contrast the cuisines of Pakistan, India, and Bengal, Hasan notes that the use of ghee, butter, and mustard oil is much more prevalent in Pakistani cooking than in Bengali or Indian.
Pakistani cuisine's stronghold swooped in with dishes like puri chaat, an enchanted mixture of yoghurt, tamarind, pomegranate, and chaat masala that, with the incredible crunch of the puris, sends taste buds into a veritable tornado. The yoghurt added sweetness, the pomegranate added tang, and the tamarind added tartness to the well-prepared mixture. You can't go wrong with this thick spiced yoghurt with absorbed puris as an appetiser; it's the perfect balance of spicy, sweet, and tangy flavours.
Everything about their chicken biriyani, the fried onions, chicken, yoghurt, lemon, alu bukhara, garam masala, and biryani masala was delicious. We were immediately stirred by the dish's strong aroma as it was placed on the table, and we devoured the expertly seasoned basmati rice. With the addition of the squeeze of lemon and the exceptionally soft chicken pieces, we couldn't help but smile as we devoured every last bite.
Afterwards, we tried their chaapli kebab, a dish that is hard to find in Dhaka. It's minced meat marinated in mint, yoghurt, pomegranate seeds, and onions. They are made into patties which are flattened and shallow-fried until the exterior is charred and savoury. Onions are served on top of each patty. The three condiments--tamarind, sweetened yoghurt, and mint and coriander chutney take the flavour to a whole new level. We relished these chaapli kebabs with the mint and coriander chutney for a satisfying and unforgettable savoury-umami bite.
Then we had the beef seekh curry, a spicy twist on traditional sheekh kebabs. Steeped in a flavorful tomato broth and topped with coal, this curry has a classic barbeque fragrance. Served with their doli roti, a combination of chana dal, whole wheat flour, poppy seeds, garam masala, and chilli powder, these beef chunks are even more flavorful in the spiced broth than they would be on their own. The rotis are soft and retain a unique savoury-spiced flavour. Even though we usually prefer rice, we found ourselves reaching for additional bread to satisfy our carb cravings after eating only a few rotis.
Then there was the beef seekh malai makhan, a robust meat dish with a buttery broth and a hint of sweet malai to complement the meat's tenderness.
Finally, the multani special nihari was a show-stopping dish that was slow-cooked with lamb shank bone pieces. It was a lusciously thick stew with bereshta (crispy fried onions), chilies, and lime slices as condiments. This stew is perfect for a chilly winter night because the meat is succulent and flavorful, and the marrow that has fallen off the bone has blended with the gravy. Before devouring the stew, sprinkle your bowl with bereshta and chopped chilies and squeeze a lime wedge over the top.
Meals at Multani Dera cost anywhere from Tk50 (for their tea) to Tk1650.
Ambience
Multani Dera in Uttara mimics the mood of traditional Pakistani dhabas with colourful traditional wall art depicting traditionally dressed silhouettes on one side and a colourful traditional dhaba truck painted on the other. Select Pakistani music plays in the background, creating an atmosphere that is devoted to Pakistani traditions and culture.
Challenges:
Having opened four months ago, Multani Dera managing partner Saikat Ali Mahmud has pointed out that, as a result of the cuisine they serve and their efforts to serve it fresh, the service takes longer than expected.
"People seem to wonder why it takes us 25 minutes to serve, but that's because we're striving to serve fresh and quality food. Especially when serving multani cuisine, we simply cannot serve food that has been sitting out," he explained.
Speaking on why they opened in Uttara in particular, Mahmud mentioned that they are attempting to fill a void in the market for Pakistani food.
They can keep to the initial pricing they set because of how conveniently located they are, and the rent is also reasonable.
If they had moved to the block across the street, he continued: "We wouldn't have been able to sustain at these prices, it would have been more expensive, even rent for us." He went on to suggest that their current location was more practical.
As a result of their responsibility to their consumers and the difficulty in responding to inflation, Mahmud said that it is tough for them to regularly raise menu prices.
Verdict
Everything we ate at Multani Dera was a delight. For those seeking to venture beyond the ordinary, we highly recommend exploring their beef seekh curry, puri chaat, nehari and doli roti.
We assure you that you won’t be disappointed and there's a good chance Multani Dera might become your go-to destination for nihari henceforth.
