Despite having the most cultural similarities with Kolkata, we in Dhaka rarely get to taste the Bengali variations of shorshe illish, kosha mangsho, or chingri macher chorchori, and believe us when we say Babumoshai Heritage brings you all that wrapped in a quirky setting, a joyous celebration of both the cultures.
The creator of Babumoshai Heritage, Shakir Zaman, said while there was a plethora of international cuisine available in Dhaka, the one thing we did not have was a restaurant dedicated to West Bengali food.
"As far as I know, no one has really brought authentic Kolkata traditions, culture, or food to Dhaka, a prominent imprint of Kolkata," stated Shakir Zaman.
While the restaurant just opened, it has seen a large crowd already.
Food
In Kolkata, aloor dom (a potato-based curry) is synonymous with eating it with luchi (puffed deep fried flatbread), a delectable delicacy cooked with baby potatoes, whole spices, mustard oil, and yogurt. The curry is spiced with kashmiri red chilli powder, coriander powder, and turmeric powder, and the tang comes from yogurt, which is blended into the curry so that it thickens rather than operating as a distinct, lighter broth.
The baby potatoes that melt in your mouth, together with the lavishly spiced dom presented with their fluffled luchis, evoke memories of the old Bengal.
Mustard is the undisputed king of zing that lasts until you've finished the fish on the plate, and they have used that to create for a mouthful of a bengali masterpiece, generously coated in mustard, this piece of hilsa will take you on a wild ride of nuanced aromatic fish, they add no ginger or garlic so that the aroma that envelops the dish does not inferior. Although the khichuri is necessary, the major appeal is the fish.
The luchi-aloor dom, shorshe ilish, and khichuri are all delectable and will happily fill your stomach, especially when accompanied by some tamarind chutney and aloo bukhara (dried prune).
They've also added Begun Bhaja (fried eggplant), which is greasy and slimy but completely worth it for the sweet and sour marinade.
Following that is a deep-fried chicken cutlet, which may or may not have had enough flavor given the previous dish on this Bengali palette. On the side, they serve kashondi (mustard relish), which helps to disguise the dish's lack of flavor.
Babumoshai Heritage charges between Tk50 and Tk1000. The price is clearly reasonable.
Ambience
Babumoshai Heritage is decorated with classic throwback kitsch, like the old cafes with wall art to vintage typewriters, camcorders and complete with a white Topor (the traditional headdress of Bengali grooms), a radio, books on a shelf, handwritten Bengali inscriptions on the walls, and colorful yellow and red chairs.
A bright yellow and green rickshaw is parked outside, and a painting of a young woman draped in a saree, damp hair, a bindi, shidoor (vermillion), a boti (a long, curved blade), and a hand-painted fan hangs on the other wall.
The moment you step into this place, you will either want to go to Kolkata or go back in time.
To bring "that vibe here," Zaman traveled to Kolkata before opening the restaurant to source unique cuisine and décor.
“I have travelled to Kolkata a number of times to get the aesthetics right,” he said.
Challenges
While most people welcome a taste of Kolkata, something odd started to happen. Zaman kept being asked the religion of the chef.
“Customers have begun inquiring if the chef or owner is Hindu,” said Zaman, which has created an issue for the new restaurant as a result of widespread ignorance.
"Most customers come in and ask what our religion is, and I'm constantly having to clarify," Zaman said.
"Some people also tend to leave assuming that the chef is Hindu and will not eat the food," he said.
Zaman believes that the restaurant's prices will remain stable for the next six months despite the global economic crisis, but that if the situation does not improve, he may have to raise them.
Verdict
If you actually want to immerse yourself in West Bengal culture, traditions, and cuisine. Travel to Kolabagan for a tasty yet nostalgic excursion.
The luchi-aloor dom alone is worth a visit.
