One of the side effects of the pandemic bringing the world to a halt is that there is time to pause and reflect on important issues. This is a chance for us to examine our patterns and perhaps change our practices for better. Even before this decade kicked off with the black swan event, the global fashion industry was under serious heat for offences ranging from a giant carbon footprint, to exploitation of workers, to cases of cultural appropriation and more. With fast fashion taking up all the oxygen in the conversation, it was getting harder and harder to listen to those promoting good practices and sustainable, socially conscious ways of wearing one’s culture.
With the cacophony on mute, we are now finally able to tune into those important voices as a way of finding a harmonious way forward. Representing our corner of the globe, Anita Dongre is a name that really needs no introduction. A truly global South Asian icon, she has dressed celebrities and royals, and has always championed the artisans and the rich cultural heritage of India. Avenue T was fortunate enough to be able to catch up with this iconic designer for a quick chat.
We are absolutely in love with your latest Grassroot collection! We know sustainability has been a driving force in your design sensibilities for a long time, but has the current global situation informed the designs in any way?
Grassroot began five years ago as a true labour of love. A love which is rooted in reviving interest in our heritage crafts, and at the same time empowering the artisans who place their decades-old expertise behind every stitch, and embroidery. It’s gratifying to see that what started out as a brand ideology for us is now becoming an industry standard; think local, shifts towards sustainability, empowering local artisans are now becoming mainstream conversations. This has only confirmed why Grassroot’s journey is so important, and our current global scenario hasn’t altered our design principles in the least. We only intend on perfecting our collection with each new release and continue protecting the artisans who are the most vulnerable.
We laud you in being amongst the first designers to pivot to the production of cotton masks, both as a safety measure, as well as a way to protect the artisans you work with. How has the response been? Do you see protective gear retaining mainstream popularity in a post-pandemic world?
All of the masks produced at our community tailoring centres are donations made to the government agencies and NGOs in the area. When the requests initially stated coming in, it is the women from these centres who volunteered to help out. It is thanks to them that we are now close to the one lakh mark in mask production.
Our community tailoring centres were set up four years ago in rural Maharashtra in partnership with the local governments where we help skill women in stitching and sewing, and empower them to lead a more financially independent life. It is these women who have now stepped up to serve their community.
