Mughal Indian cuisine is much loved in Dhaka, with each Dhakahite having their own go-to spot that they revisit several times a year. Since 2013, Tarka has become a frequent stop for many.
Whenever you yearn for Mughlai Indian food, from Afghani kebabs to elaborate thaalis, dal, and curry, Tarka will spoil you for options.
“The kid who ate at Tarka at 15 will still come back when they are 30 to eat here; that's the kind of longevity Mughlai cuisine holds,” said Tarka Founder Ashfaq Rahman Asif.
The restaurant has relocated to a new spot in Banani, although they were previously located in the same area.
The relocation has provided them with more space for private rooms and made it more comfortable for fine dining. The regal touch pays homage to Mughal traditions while giving diners the impression of arriving at a luxurious hotel.
“With the relocation, we tried to make it more spacious so we could allocate private rooms and give the decor more of a Mughal touch,” said Asif.
Food
We began our scrumptious lunch with the mega mixed platter, which consisted of various kebabs, including chicken Afghani, fish Nilgiri, tandoori prawn, zafrani paneer tikka, seekh kebabs, chicken wings, and galouti kebabs, all cooked in a clay oven and served with grilled tomatoes and mint chutney.
The chicken Afghani, zafrani paneer tikkas, and galouti kebabs stood out on the platter. The heavy cream combined with creamy cashews laced with poppy, melon, and pepper seeds worked well for the Afghani kebabs, bringing out classic tandoori charred flavours.
The chicken was properly cooked and utterly satisfying. The galouti kebabs were a delight, with finely minced lamb and papaya paste softening the meat to the point that it melts in your mouth, creating a delectable experience on another level.
The paneer tikkas, despite being a vegetarian delicacy, stood out among the kebabs. The cottage cheese chunks, doused in a thick yogurt marinade with various spices, had a light yet lingering familiar taste of yogurt and cottage cheese laced with a masala of ginger, garlic paste, and red chili powder, bringing a nuanced tang that you could relish.
Up next, we had their butter chicken, which was liberally drenched in thick, spiced tomato and butter gravy. The thickened roux entirely coated the delicate chicken pieces, making each bite memorable for its saucy, chunky, and tender texture as the gravy dominated our palate.
Alongside the myriad of kebabs and butter chicken, we were served an assortment of naan. From Kashmiri to butter garlic and Maharaja naan, we were spoiled for choice.
While we enjoyed the warm, flaky variations of naan, the Kashmiri naan, glazed with red beads of cherries, almonds, and cashews, looked eccentric but was a touch too sweet for our liking.
We were intrigued by the enormity of the Maharaja naan. However, its taste was overshadowed by the lingering flavour of coriander. Our best bet in terms of naan was to stick with the simple yet classic butter-garlic naan, which we devoured with the chicken and kebabs.
No Indian meal is complete without a serving of dal makhani, and Tarka’s version did not disappoint. The creamy, velvety lentils, slow-cooked to perfection, was a comforting accompaniment to our meal. The robust taste of the dal, with a generous helping of butter, added depth and richness to our dining experience.
Last but definitely not least, the mint chutney stole the show. The sweet, tangy, and spicy chutney was delectable and incredibly enticing, making us crave one more mouthful regardless of what we paired it with.
The price range for a meal at Tarka is Tk 580 to Tk 3,333.
Ambience
Located in Banani, Tarka relaunched with old school charm of the Mughals.
Ethereal royal blue and white adorns the walls. Classic black and white marble flooring. Antique teak mughal windows and doors set around the space. There are spacious private rooms allocated to accommodate formal meetings and intimate family gatherings.
Challenges
Having opened 11 years ago in 2013, Tarka has solidified its position and reputation in the culinary industry in Dhaka. However, remaining consistent in both food and service remains the biggest challenge, according to Asif.
“There could be days when the chef makes a mistake, and there could be days when I make a mistake, leading us to lose a customer that day, often without our awareness, and it’s hard to regain that trust,” he said.
The relocation was a result of a significant rent hike due to inflation. “The owners had increased the rent significantly for the previous location and told us it was because of inflation, so we could no longer stay there,” he added.
Verdict
If you want to figure out how Tarka is still standing strong, definitely try their galouti kebabs, dal makhani, and butter chicken, which are served separately. Give one of their thaalis a shot—whichever composition sounds most appetizing to you. Don’t forget to pair your meal with their mint chutney.
The price range is suited for an occasional affair and it’s definitely worth a visit. The new location is also quite spectacular.
