The European regulator called for an end to fast fashion by 2030; announcing a vast expansion of eco-design rules in textiles products.
They also wanted large companies to disclose the amount of unsold stock they send to landfills as part of a wide-ranging plan to crack down on the fast-fashion culture.
Moreover, the proposed rules would force companies to overhaul their clothing designs to meet a laundry list of criteria, governing everything from how long the garment lasts to the amount of recycled yarn it contains.
Each item of clothing sold receives a digital product passport to check how recyclable a shirt or a pair of jeans is and greenwashing will be strictly controlled and punished.
Moreover, destruction of unsold or returned goods will also be prohibited.
According to Eurostat, the EU is the world's biggest clothes importer and its top five sources are China, Bangladesh, Turkey, the UK, and India.
Being the second-largest apparel supplier to the EU as well as the world - manufacturers, experts, and brands are deeply concerned with the legislation announced by the EU.
However, they believe that Bangladesh's apparel industry is on the right track to cope with the EU’s decision as the country is transitioning towards sustainability.
Brands like H&M, M&S, G-Star and others working with Bangladeshi manufacturers said that Bangladesh is also going towards sustainability as per the new rules from Brussels.
What brands say
Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Ziaur Rahman, regional country manager of Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Africa region of H&M, said that they welcome the publication of the Textiles Strategy and look forward to a more sustainable fashion industry.
“At H&M Group, we believe that an industry-wide shift from a linear to a circular business model is one of the key solutions and we very much support the EU Commission’s efforts to establish a coordinated policy framework and a level playing field to drive an impactful and successful industrial strategy,” he added.
“However, we recognize that we need to tackle the issue of the transformation of the industry in a systematic way,” he added.
For these reforms to be possible in Bangladesh and in other markets, they recognize that they need to support the decision-making of the local authorities.
“Collaboration with others is vital to enable the necessary transformation of the entire industry,” he added.
Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Shafiur Rahman, regional manager of G-Star said that in business, the changes in policies and strategies are normal and the change is also a part of sustainability.
However, change in consumer behaviour is not so easy where apparel or fashion is part of self-motivation in people's personal life.
Consumers are now paying more attention to quality and sustainability meaning that the producers of low-price and short-use products need to change their policies.
“Bangladesh has knowledge and capabilities, only through necessary implementation will Bangladesh be able to keep pace with sustainable and circular fashion,” he added.
The quality of Bangladeshi products is high and the country is now capable of producing sustainable garments.
As a brand, G Star offers a variety of support to make a garment sustainable by repairing or reshaping the products.
Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Kamal Ahammed, head of finance and operations of Marks and Spencer, said that circular fashion is no longer an option, it is a requirement rather than a trend.
“There has been considerable awareness among consumers of Europe about sustainable and circular fashion and the European Union has given their support to inspire brands to produce sustainable products,” he added.
Moving towards sustainable and circular fashion would be very good for Bangladesh as there is no other way, he added.
“In this regard, policymakers, manufacturers, brands, investors and everyone else must move forward together in this and make a roadmap,” he added.
Manufacturers maintain their stance
In line with the strategy of sustainable and circular textiles, the apparel manufacturers of Bangladesh have renewed their vision with a view to keeping pace with the international strategies.
On July 5, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the apex body of the country’s RMG manufacturers, unveiled their renewed vision to make the industry more sustainable, circular, energy-efficient, and green.
In their renewed vision, the apparel exporters will reduce emissions of GHG by 30% by 2030 and they will use at least 50% of sustainable materials mix and will reduce 50% of blue water footprint by this time.
The sector will be able to reduce energy consumption by 30% and will use at least 20% of renewable energy.
Apparel manufacturers will invest $1 billion in sustainable communities and will also ensure 100% sustainability data reporting, 80% green factories and a 60% increase in production efficiency.
Talking to Dhaka Tribune, Faruque Hassan, president of the BGMEA said that they recently visited Copenhagen and talked about these issues with brands.
“We're working together and we will do more in the future on a sustainable and circular economy and are working internationally with everyone. We are moving forward step by step,” he added.
He also said that they are working with P4G-funded Circular Fashion Partnership (CPF) initiative which aims to achieve a long-term, scalable transition to a circular fashion system that produces new, low carbon footprint and responsibly-made products.
“The partnership between the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), BGMEA and Reverse Resources (RR) includes 19 brands, 17 recyclers and 85 manufacturers on board,” he added.
Mohiuddin Rubel, director of the BGMEA, said that the transformation started in the industry long ago.
“Bangladesh is in the highest position in the world in all aspects regarding sustainable factory and circular fashion. There are 163 LEED-certified green factories and 550 more in the pipeline,” he added.
Now the country is creating a situation where no factory can run without caring for sustainability.
“We have no reason to be alarmed by the EU's announcement, rather it will be another opportunity for us,” he added.
In order to survive in the current competitive world reality, manufacturers have to transform into sustainable and circular fashions as buyers are now much more aware of this.
“Here sustainable or circular factories don’t mean that they must have LEED certification,” he added.
