More than 2000 handloom factories have become inoperative in Brahmanbaria district leading to unemployment of thousands of weavers.
Dearth of running capital, high price of raw materials like yarn, dyes, and chemicals, extortion and a lack of incentives to the handloom workers have contributed to the situation.
Imperiled, the weavers of Bancharampur upazila of the district are opting for other jobs leaving their age-old profession.
Once there were 3,162 handlooms in 32 villages under Bancharampur upazila. Huge consignments of handloom made lungis and towels used to be transported to Baburhat in Narsingdi.
At present, only around a thousand handloom factories are in function in the upazila with no modern facilities.
If the price of yarn is not controlled the small industry might collapse, said a number of weavers.
A weaver of Rupsadi village Ohiduzzaman said: “Because of the rise in the price of yarn, the weaving cost of four pieces of lungis has risen by Tk60 but the selling price is still the same. A weaver weaves four lungis each day and earns Tk100. With this little money he cannot maintain a family.”
Salimabad Union Primary Weaver’s Samity Chairman Sanaullah Sunny said: “The weavers start their businesses by taking loans. Whatever profit they make goes to the money lenders.”
So, most of the producers in the district are being forced shut down their handlooms and change profession, he said.
Kala Miya of Rupsadi village had been in the profession for 40 years. He said because of the decreasing numbers of workers he often had to keep his factory shut these days. However, number of workers increases during monsoon.
Dariyadoulat Weaver’s Samity Chairman Sidduqur Rahman said if the weavers were not spared from giving interests and loans were not provided by the government, the traditional art might become extinct in this region.
A number of veteran weavers said although technology has changed many sectors, this sector had remained out of the influence of modern technology over the years. Still the weavers have to use their hands to put colours on the yarns and in return they do not get a decent wage.
Fifty-year-old Hossain Miya, who had been in the profession since 1987, said: “I have seen many changes in the designs of lungi and towels. Like many, I took up this profession out of interest. Initially there was good money. But now as the powerlooms have become dominant, I am not paid like before.”
“What I get from weaving is so meager, I cannot even buy daily essentials, let alone buying any better food,” said weaver Bakir, while working with yarns inside a shabby hut.
Many related to the sector complained that they had to buy wood and bamboos from Naraynganj to make the handlooms themselves.
No government initiative was taken over the years to train the weavers of this region. Although one training centre was established in 1987, it was closed down within short time, they said.
Local Weaver’s Board official Kazi Abul Kalam said: “This year we have provided Tk330,000 as loan to 16 handloom owners. But because of a lack of interest in locals towards this profession we are not being able to resume the training centre.”