Since the Rana Plaza building collapse killed more than 1,100 people in April, retailers have faced mounting pressures to improve safety in Bangladesh garment factories and to sever ties with manufacturers that do not measure up, according to a report by Pro Publica.
The world’s largest retailer, Walmart, last month released a list of more than 200 factories it said it had barred from producing its merchandise because of serious or repeated safety problems, labour violations or unauthorised subcontracting.
But at least two of the factories on the list have continued to send massive shipments of sports bras and girls’ dresses to Walmart stores in recent months, according to interviews and US customs records.
In June 2011, Walmart said, it banned the garment factory Mars Apparels from producing goods for the retail giant. But over the last year, Mars has repeatedly shipped tonnes of sports bras to Walmart, according to US customs records and Mars owners.
The most recent shipment was in late May, almost two years after Walmart claimed it stopped doing business with the Bangladeshi firm.
A second Bangladeshi clothing maker, Simco Dresses, was blacklisted in January but continued shipping to Walmart Canada into March.
Walmart spokesman Kevin Gardner said the Mars shipments were allowed because of confusion over whether Walmart’s standards applied. Mars did not produce garments with a Walmart house brand but instead with a Fruit of the Loom label.
So, Gardner said, it was not clear if Mars needed to meet Walmart’s standards or Fruit of the Loom’s.
Fruit of the Loom could not immediately be reached for comment.
As for Simco, orders that Walmart had already placed were accepted to lessen the impact on workers, Gardner said.
The shipments raise questions about Walmart’s ability to monitor its supply chain as well as its efforts to ensure decent working conditions in factories located in low-wage countries.