The word paturi comes from the method of cooking on a flat surface, covered in a banana leaf on low heat, according to food historian Pritha Sen. This rich food history can sometimes be overwhelming, not knowing where to start.
Paturi, Banani makes this very easy with their well-curated menu that offers the rich culinary heritage of Bengal on a plate.
"Most of the recipes are from Abul Khair's mother, Mumtaz Khaliq, and were taught to her by Professor Abdur Razzaq, and the family has a rich treasure trove of unique recipes. Paturi represents 100 of them," said Managing Director Zeenat Chowdhury.
Food
Their chingri (prawn) paturi is made of fresh prawns in a pocket of a dark green banana leaf with a rich marination of mustard, coconut, and poppy seed paste with the necessary quantity of salt and turmeric. This is their signature dish.
Part of the fun of eating a Paturi is unfolding the banana leaf and revealing the mustard-covered food inside.
The aroma of mustard seeds coupled with white rice overwhelms your senses from the first taste. As you savour the strong flavour of the mustard seeds that have been sprinkled in, you can't help but smile. However, an excessive amount of salt was used in the marination and as a result, the end product has a bite that keeps the salt on your tongue for much longer than you would like.
Their Bhetki (Barramundi) paturi is another dish that has become legendary throughout the years. This dish is wrapped in a huge banana leaf bundle and then pan-fried to achieve a charred appearance.
The mustard, coconut, and poppy seed marinade used for the barramundi is the same as for the prawns; however, the barramundi has a lighter texture on the tongue, and the intense flavour of the mustard seed is not as overpowering as it is with the prawns; instead, the natural buttery flavour of the barramundi comes through more strongly. Regardless, the barramundi is wonderful.
Even though paturis are their signature dish, it would not be altogether unfair to say that their chitol maacher kofta (knifefish fishballs) stole the show for us.
These mouthwatering morsels, cooked in a thick tomato and onion sauce, retain their flavour, spiciness and ability to make you drool until the last bite. After being formed traditionally by moulding it in one's hands, the fish fillet is fried and then cooked in the gravy, resulting in each bite having a deliciously savoury flavour.
Their achari (pickle) chicken is a tangy meat meal that you will adore as it is a mixture of nigella, fennel, cumin, and black mustard seeds combined with yoghurt and it also contains entire spices.
The achari flavour, also known as mango pickle, is the most prominent taste, and while it does an excellent job of living up to its name, you might find yourself wishing that the pickles had more of a sweet flavour than a sour one.
Ambience
At the entrance, a mustard yellow "Paturi" sign put on top of a red-bricked wall touching the tall green tree leaves welcomes you to the premises that radiate traditionalism with a side of designs embellishing the light-shaded walls.
The dark cream-coloured off-white and white walls, blue seats on one side, and light brown and cocoa chairs complement the off-white walls with a large blue painting in a pretty spacious space seating a potentially large group of families eating together.
Challenges
People have difficulty understanding the concept of Bengali food paired with an elegant dining experience.
"Of course, because of the nature of the food, some people couldn't reconcile the concept when we first started," Chowdhury continued. "But now, not only are people more accepting, but they recognize the need for a place to showcase our culinary traditions to the world."
Customers recognized price increases during the Covid-19 outbreak, but inflation has kept global expenses high.
"People we dealt with were understanding during the pandemic and the general perception now is that the pandemic has passed, but inflation has set in and it is a global phenomenon," Chowdhury explained.
A rise in prices is being contemplated; nevertheless, there is a lot to consider because individuals are spending less on eating out for recreational purposes.
"We may need to increase prices, but with everyone being affected, we're not sure how much disposable income is left to spend on eating out," she added.
Verdict
If you need a break from the usual restaurant offerings, check out Paturi. The food coupled with the ambience and the ability to taste what makes our culture truly special will have you coming back for more.