The stark white walls of Samuel Hoque’s Style Sanctum provide the perfect foil for his Autumn/Winter 2016 collection, which is an explosion of prints and patterns. Plaids, stripes and subtle rocky prints run up and down tailored kurtas and panjabis. Bold heat pressed lines of navy and red border the elegant shawls. Floral printed pocket squares bloom against polka dotted dishes. Birds and bees chase each other across bright backgrounds on the loungewear sets. Taking pride of place are the T-cos, Samuel’s latest invention – stylish urban coatis in T-shirt fabric, in eye popping camo combos.
Lounging amidst the array of patterns, a red-soled loafer propped up against a glass table, the man himself is busy putting final touches to his collection for the ongoing International Weavers Festival. Weekend Tribune got down for a quick chat about patterns.
What are your favourite menswear trends for this season?
Camouflage for sure. Valentino brought it back, and Chanel will take it right into Spring/Summer ’17. I’m glad it’s planning to stick around for a while. I’ve brought it into my signature kurtas and T-Cos.
What is your least favourite trend?
Sheer menswear. For the strangest reason, it seems to be favoured more by the men with hairy backs and potbellies. Why would you do that to yourself?
Describe your A/W collection in three words
Researched. Wearable. Classy
Your experiments and inventions have so far been very well-received. From last season’s scarf kurta (panjabis with attached uttorios), to this season’s hit T-cos. The loungewear is a bold choice, though. This one is probably going to take the average Dhaka man some getting used to. How has the reception been so far?
Honestly, it’s been great. Strangely enough, although I don’t cater to the women’s market, I’m getting a lot of orders for his/her sets, for these. I’m very happy to oblige of course. Women look very attractive in oversized men’s clothing.
We’re seeing a lot of prints in this collection; both your separates and sets are designed to allow print and pattern mixing. What advice do you have for someone attempting the mixed prints trend for the very first time?
Enjoy it! Have fun and go crazy.
Any words of caution for the same?
None. Fashion is art, and always open to interpretation. You do what you want to do, as long as you love it, and are comfortable.
So you’re designing for the IWF – your first big show in Dhaka since you came back. How do you feel?
Deeply honoured to be participating, overworked and stressed, but loving every minute! When the legendary Tootli Rahman gave me this opportunity – and challenge – I just had to accept. I haven’t worked with indigenous fabrics before, but I am so happy I did. It’s started a whole new love affair with Jamdani, muslin and Mirpuri katan.
It was quite a thrill to be moulding and shaping these complex, beautiful fabrics into cuts that one would recognize as Samuel Hoque, keeping my personal design aesthetics in mind.
The International Weaver’s Festival concludes tomorrow night, with a special surprise from Tootli Rahman and Samuel Hoque in their Design Drama segment.