Among the many districts that form Metro Manila, there lies a walled medieval city called Intramuros. If its walls could talk, it would have told us countless stories and memories of what was once the lavish centre of the ever loyal city of Manila. Within this enclave, from where the political and religious power emerged during the Spanish colonial era, are richly decorated churches of the major religious orders, elegant government buildings and houses of the rich that made this fortified city a showcase of the West in the Orient.
Intramuros is located along Manila Bay and south of the Pasig River. It is the oldest district and the historic core of Manila. Intramuros is a Latin word which means “within the walls” and the district beyond the walls are called Extramuros, meaning “outside the wall”. During the Spanish colonial period this was the Spanish “Green Zone”. “Within the walls” or Intramuros was where Spanish blood lived while the natives lived outside the city walls.
Intramuros is also called the “Walled City” because of its most famous feature – a nearly three-mile-long circuit of massive stone walls and fortifications that almost completely surrounds the entire district.
The walls were constructed in 1590. Over the centuries, where earthquakes, fires, typhoons and the British invasion (1762-1764) of Manila took its toll of the structures within the walls, nothing compared to the ravages of World War II where Manila suffered the brunt of the war to become the second most destroyed city in the world and Intramuros wasn’t spared. When the dust settled, it was only the church of the Augustinians, that was left standing. In the 1970s, when the Intramuros Administration was created, slowly, the once beautiful city was restored. Today, Intramuros, while a far cry from its rich past, is one of the country’s top showcases of its colonial past.
As soon as I walked through the gate, the hectic life of modern Manila dissolved behind me, and I found myself exploring this historic part of the capital. I walked the old city walls, which are very broad in some parts, with mossy areas on which old cannons are still pointing outwards, and saw older city gates. The oldest church of the Philippines is here: San Agustin; a lovely colonial church with a courtyard and museum. On the northern side of Intramuros, I found the cathedral, and further to the north, Fort Santiago: the original Spanish fortress. Here, you can find several places of historical interest, like the cell in which national hero Rizal was kept the day before his execution. When you see the modern parts of the city all around you, you cannot but thank the local government for protecting this historical site.
Intramuros is small and easily navigated on foot – the city within the walls is a mere 67 sq km in area. Though there are two ways to get around Intramuros. First, is on foot. While the heat, depending on the season, may be a factor, it does allow a generous amount of time to take in all the sights and the history Intramuros has to offer. The second is through the famed Kalesa. The horse-driven carriage can be found all over the bay-area, Manila district. The drivers are usually knowledgeable and will share their own views on Filipino History. However, be prepared to bargain with some of them. There were formerly eight different cathedrals within the walls of Intramuros, there are now just two left.
San Agustin
The mother of all Philippine Churches, San Agustin stands proud. Finished in 1604, it has withstood the test of time and earthquakes. During World War II, it only suffered a hole at what is now the Legazpi Chapel and some bullet riddled bells and walls.
Walking its corridors is like travelling through time as the church is also a monastery with its layout following those once practised in Europe and Mexico. At its choir loft is one of the country’s treasures: a complete set of mercy seats that were carved in the 17th century and bears striking oriental features. San Agustin Church has a lengthy history and it was the first church built by the Spanish in Intramuros. It’s now been rebuilt and renovated numerous times, but it was originally constructed from local bamboo and palm branches. Fires, earthquakes, and a variety of conflicts and invasions, yet San Agustin Church still stands.
Manila Cathedral
Another church that has a similar history and is perhaps more visually pleasing is the Manila Cathedral. The Manila Cathedral has an incredible story, one that reflects very much of Philippine history. The cathedral serves as the seat of the Archbishop of Manila and the place where papal masses are held. Devastated seven times by natural disasters and the WWII since 1571, the year it was founded, the church was rebuilt after each time—a testament to the faith and resilience of the Filipino people. In 2012, Manila Cathedral was then renovated for disaster prevention and opened its doors again in 2014 with improved interior and exterior. The Manila Cathedral is a great meeting point, a place to find a horse carriage if you’re interested, and a good place to begin your exploration of Intramuros.
Casa Manila
As for museums, Casa Manila is one of the most famous in Intramuros. It’s a representation of an old Spanish colonial home and there’s even a restaurant, coffee shop, and hotel inside..
Fort Santiago
Fort Santiago, which is actually connected to the outer wall, is another landmark of importance in Intramuros. It was used as a stronghold for defense within the city. The old Fort Santiago, located at the northern tip, still stands. Its main gate, then badly damaged during the war was restored. The fort is also particularly famous for being where José Rizal, one of the founding fathers of the modern Philippines, was detained. On the ground you’ll also find Rizal’s footprints where you can follow the national hero from his prison cell to the place where he was finally executed. To many Filipinos, this is no ordinary fort. Its main significance is that it was the place where the Philippine national hero, Jose Rizal was incarcerated and sentenced to death by musketry in the waning years of Spanish rule. In one of the old buildings, now the Rizal Shrine and museum, holds memorabilia and various homage to the national hero. It includes showcases of his sculptural works, writings, a piece of bone as well as some pertinent photos.
Plaza De Roma
Head to the Plaza de Roma, formerly called Plaza de Armas when it was a bull ring. It’s hard to miss because it’s the small park right across Manila Cathedral. Here, you will find the imposing monument built in tribute to King Carlos IV of Spain. On one side is the Palacio Del Gobernador, which currently houses the Commission on Elections. On the other side, you will see the Ayuntamiento de Manila.
Also within Intramuros nowadays you’ll find schools, a few cafes, and some restaurants. Luckily it remains quiet and peaceful unlike the rowdy traffic that roars just on the other side of the walls. Of all the things to do in Manila, exploring Intramuros is one of the best ways to learn about the city’s history and see the mixture of cultural heritage in the Philippines. For a self sightseeing tour around Intramuros district, give yourself about 3 – 4 hours.
So what are you waiting for? Explore. Intramuros is a great place to stroll and it’s best to experience it with your loved ones.
Travel notes:Try to wear comfortable clothing because you’re in for a long walk.
The best time to go is during the morning around 9am when the temperature is not that humid
Carry an umbrella because sometimes the weather can be unpredictable.
Drink a lot of water to hydrate yourself prior the tour and do bring refillable water bottles with you.
If you need to ask for directions, do so in designated tourism centers or to employees of establishments around the area.
There are lots of kalesa and pedicabs offering guided tour for a fee which costs about 300 for pedicab up to 2500 for kalesa per hour. Don’t hesitate to ask for a discount because the driver might give you a 50% discount.
Eliza Binte Elahi is Faculty and Coordinator of MBA/EMBA Program, University of South Asia, Dhaka