FROM A NOMAD’S DIARY

From the Amazon to Heyako: inside one of Asia’s largest rubber garden in Dantmara

In late August of 2022, I embarked on a whirlwind visit to the greater Chittagong region. It was the only time I had ever made it to the picturesque Upazila of Fatikchhari. The weather was characteristically warm and highly humid with stray rains, aligning perfectly with the typical transition period from the peak monsoon into early autumn.

Featuring scenic tea and rubber gardens, rolling hills, and a rich spiritual heritage the fertile landscape of Fatikchhari sits as a wide valley between the Sitakunda Hills to the west and the Chittagong Hill Tracts to the east. Its topography transitions smoothly from elevated highlands to low-lying floodplains.

I had no clue whatsoever that traveling north from the port city—while visiting farmlands and talking to farmers about homegrown, eco-friendly agricultural practices—I would suddenly stumble upon a bustling rural market hub called Heyako. That chance encounter led me to Dantmara, one of Asia’s largest rubber gardens.

By midday, winding roads lined with dense rubber trees invited me deep into the sprawling, 4,500-acre estate, its thousands of trees fully flushed with heavy foliage. Entering the garden, I could clearly sense how early autumn was playing out in the vibrancy of the plantation.

In late August, the Dantmara Rubber Garden reaches its peak visual richness, completely transformed by the recently passed monsoon season. Autumn brings a sea of vibrant, deep green leaves. The sunlight filtering through the thick canopy is soft and dappled, creating a peaceful, muted green glow across the forest floor. The straight, slender trunks of the rubber trees stand in perfectly uniform, geometric rows. Thanks to the high humidity, the dark bark often looks slick and wet, lightly coated in bright green moss.

Planting rubber seeds in a germination bed is a critical first step in raising healthy rootstocks for budding, as rubber seeds have a very short viability period and must be sown immediately after collection. For germination bed typically a shady, flat, open area with close access to a water source, protected from strong winds and pests, is selected. Rubber seeds typically begin sprouting within 7 to 14 days. The sprouted seedlings are then immediately transplanted into a ground nursery or poly bags to grow into budded rootstocks. Photo: Dhaka Tribune/BFIDC

Over time, the area developed around the Heyako Bazar, which grew as a historic meeting place where indigenous hillside farmers brought local crops like ginger, turmeric, and pineapples to trade with plains merchants. As the marketplace thrived, the unique local name Heyako eventually became formalized to describe the entire surrounding region.

Today, locals alternate between the names Dantmara and Heyako, at times identifying the plantation as the Heyako Rubber Garden. The stretch of road leading to the garden is so beautiful that people call it "Selfie Road," and it draws many domestic tourists.

Fatikchhari is also home to three more rubber gardens, 18 tea estates (including the famed Halda Valley), and fertile farmlands growing an abundance of vegetables and fruits.

Across Bangladesh, there are 18 state-run rubber gardens encompassing a total land area of over 38,000 acres. Along with Dantmara, the largest of them all, the three other Fatikchhari gardens—Kanchannagar, Tarakho, and Rangamatia—cover over a fourth of Bangladesh’s total public-sector rubber plantations.

The Dantmara Rubber Garden predates Bangladesh itself; planting began during the late Pakistan era, though it did not come into commercial production until the late 1970s. Rubber trees cannot be harvested immediately. They must grow for five to seven years until they reach about six inches in diameter before their first tapping cycle can begin.

The process of actively extracting latex from rubber trees is called rubber tapping. It is a highly precise, delicate art requiring skilled laborers to slice into the bark without permanently damaging the tree. Tappers use a specialized, hooked tapping knife to shave a thin, downward diagonal groove along the bark at a 30- to 45-degree angle. This precise angle allows gravity to seamlessly channel the fluid. The cut is roughly a quarter of an inch deep—deep enough to open the latex-bearing vessels in the inner bark, but shallow enough to protect the delicate cambium layer, which is the tree’s internal growth zone. Cutting into the cambium can scar, stunt, or even kill the tree.

A small metal or ceramic spout is hammered into the bottom of the fresh incision. The milky-white, sticky liquid slowly oozes out, running down the spiral cut into the spout, which drips directly into a collection cup attached underneath. Tapping is almost exclusively done in the early morning hours, often before dawn. The cool morning temperatures maintain a higher internal fluid pressure inside the trunk, causing the latex to flow freely for up to five hours. As the sun rises and temperatures climb, the latex naturally thickens and coagulates, sealing the cut.

The image shows a rubber tree plantation alongside the detailed process of rubber tapping. The left panel displays neatly arranged rows of rubber trees growing in a plantation setting while the focuses close up on a single trunk undergoing latex collection. A specialized diagonal incision is sliced into the bark, allowing the milky, white liquid sap (latex) to slowly drip down a metal spout into a small hanging cup. Photo: Dhaka Tribune/BFIDC

While surfing through the official website of the Bangladesh Forest Industries Development Corporation (BFIDC)—which operates the 18 state-run gardens—I found a fascinating history of rubber production. The natural forests of the Amazon Valley in South America are the original habitat of the rubber tree. Christopher Columbus is considered the first European to encounter rubber; after his second voyage in 1496, he brought back balls made from a type of tree gum, which the people of Haiti used for playing games.

Between 1873 and 1876, an enthusiastic group of British citizens gathered rubber seeds from Brazil and experimentally planted them in Kew Gardens, London. From there, about 2,000 seedlings were sent to present-day Sri Lanka, with subsequent seedlings distributed to Malaysia, the Java Islands, Singapore, and eventually India. Commercial rubber cultivation in the East began from these very seedlings. Singapore played a groundbreaking role by discovering a method of systematically extracting sap from the trees. Rubber is derived from latex, a substance in which rubber particles float in the form of colloidal oil. Roughly 25 to 30 percent of latex is rubber hydrocarbon, 60 percent is water, and the remainder consists of proteins, pigments, salts, and sugars.

According to the BFIDC, some seedlings were brought from the Calcutta Botanical Garden to Sylhet and Chittagong in 1910. Later, in 1952, the Forest Department planted experimental trees in Madhupur in Tangail, Hajerikhil in Chittagong, and Tetulia in Panchagarh. In 1959, Mr. Lloyd, an expert from the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), identified the climate and soil of the country as ideal for rubber cultivation. Following his recommendations, the Forest Department initiated a pilot project on 710 acres in 1960, establishing a 10-acre garden in Raozan, Chittagong, and a 30-acre garden in Ramu, Cox's Bazar, marking the official beginning of planned rubber cultivation in Bangladesh.

Returning from Chittagong to Dhaka after that 2022 visit, I found myself constantly thinking about how rewarding Fatikchhari had been, yet how much of it remained unexplored. Beyond the famous Dantmara garden, it boasts a diverse mix of lush tea estates, pristine wildlife sanctuaries, spiritual landmarks, and scenic modern hangouts. Fatikchhari is calling me back.