Craving Indian food? Tarka has everything from Dosas to Thalis

Tarka has evolved over the years. What used to be a casual dining restaurant has now become a beautiful fine dining experience.

“Tarka started off wanting to be exactly that, a friendly neighbourhood Indian restaurant in Banani, one that you can just walk into to hangout and casually eat Curry, Thaali or Chaat items.

“We wanted to be an easygoing Indian restaurant when we started off, one that wasn't a fine dining experience, but was fun and authentic,” said Tarka's managing partner Nazmus Shakib.

But the restaurant had taken to the idea of a fine-dining restaurant as it grew, and made a decision to relocate and redecorate to accommodate families.

“We are now a fine dining restaurant that has more families coming in,” He added.

While customers may have changed, the cuisine sticks to its roots of authentic Indian food. 

Ambience

Tarka’s interior glows with jewel toned furniture and beautiful lighting.

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The cool toned sapphire colored chairs are contrasted by warm orange painting, and dim table lamps on each table.

The lamps add a touch of elegance to the decor that is hardly found in Dhaka.

Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka Tribune

Food

The starters included Dahi Phuchka, a delectable mix of the classic spicy tamarind in addition to a creamy sour yogurt. 

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The crispy dough shells had a stuffing of light pudina chutney, and chickpeas.

Mehedi Hasan/Dhaka Tribune

Their family style Masala Dosa was a beautiful light gold and brown, as you reach to tear it apart, the texture crumbles effortless, and the masterfully weaved fermented rice and lentil batter creates for an earthy aroma as soon as the plate of a gigantic thin crepe is served.

The stuffing on the Dosa that is usually folded inside, was served separately because of the unconventional size  and was a flavourful mix of chicken, potatoes, chaat masala, was a deliciously boisterous blend of sweet-sour and tart flavours. 

The soft potatoes contrasted with the crispy Dosa and were a tasteful combination that would leave you wanting for more.

The South Indian delicacy is served with the much coveted condiments of Sambar, and coconut chutney.

The pigeon pea and tamarind broth is thick in texture and creates for a tangy-sour taste on the tongue, the addition of soft brinjal, drumstick, gourd and ladies finger is what makes the stew delectably healthy.

The perfect companion to the Sambar is the sweet coconut chutney that is a fine paste  of ground coconut, pungent green chillies, ginger and chana daal (lentil) smartly tempered with mustard leaves, red chilies and curry leaves that adds an extra spicy zing to the otherwise dominantly sugary chutney.

This complex dish of Masala Dosa was a treat, and an endless combination of seasonings put together that is unforgettable and every morsel will make you relish.

Then came the Rajwadi Thaali consisting of an array of mouth-watering meat and vegetable dishes, with a side of rice diligently plated right at the centre of the Thaali, and just the amount is bound to leave you awestruck.

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The first of the dishes was the Chicken Afghani where the glazed chicken is deftly marinated in some luscious cream, rich cashews, poppy and melon seeds with some pepper to finish, this mildly-spicy and the perfectly seasoned chicken lip-smacking good.

The next component of the Thaali was the Chicken Andhra Tikka, tempered with green chilies and curry leaves, the taste encompasses an instant spice tingling on your tastebuds, and leaves you salivating. 

The well-blended mix also includes some ghee, lemon juice, and turmeric, there is no lack of seasoning on this dish, but it could have been slightly moist than it was, as even with the flavours, the dryness of the tikkas was evident.

Of the two masterfully flavoured chicken dishes, the Chicken Afghani has become a personal favourite.

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The much-need companion to the chicken dishes and rice was the tasteful Dal Makhani.

The famous North Indian lentil dish was richly smooth and creamy, and you can instantly taste the combination of pulse, and kidney beans masterfully combined.

Served with a splash of butter on the dark gravy, this comforting and warm dish makes you take second servings of the Daal minutes after the first irresistible bite.

Then there was the Vegetable Dopiaza that as the name suggests has the rich, savoury vegetable stock, and a mildly sweet distinct taste of caramelized onions.

The ingredients that put together this vegetarian delicacy include tomato, cauliflower, green chillies, ginger, garlic, turmeric and ground cardamom.

What you will appreciate most about this delight of a vegetarian dish is that the seasoning, while strong, yet does not overshadow, and retains the taste of the fresh vegetables.

Another vegetarian delight that adorned the thaali was the Pindi Chole that was a concoction of chickpeas, chana masala, and cream that created the heavenly gravy.

The chickpeas have a nutty undertone that has a sour-citrus kick from the chana masala, you could easily appreciate the seasoning and devour the chickpeas accompanied by the gravy, and you will still keep reaching for more.

Another famous dish of Palak Paneer was rightfully placed on the Thaali, and it was hard to not keep staring at it.

The rich dark green gravy made from a thick paste of pureed spinach had cubed cottage cheese atop.

The creamy, vibrant green dish is slightly spicy spinach paste with the addition  of bay leaves, garlic, cumin seeds and asafetida.

This dish is sure to make your taste buds tingle and your heart full.

Lastly, the Thaali included Shaahi Tukda as the dessert that had ghee fried bread, thickened sweetened milk, saffron, and nuts.

While the addition of the saffron, and nuts definitely added more texture to the dish, and gives a taste that is varyingly sweet and nutty, the overindulgence of nuts could have been avoided to retain the simplicity that would possibly make for a better sweet course.

The price range for a meal at tarka is Tk550 to Tk2,500,

Challenges

Like others in the industry, the 8-year old restaurant was affected by the Covid-19 outbreak in March 2020.

While they followed the guidelines and shut down when required, the longevity of the pandemic, and the unknown timelines did not help, according to Shakib.

The establishment had not downsized, and kept their employees on even during the lockdowns.

“I wish we had known how long it (Covid-19) and the subsequent lockdowns would last. It would have been easier to downsize,” he said.

The restaurant is still afloat and surviving, but the inflation hikes in the country does not help matters and does not guarantee survival at the same rate either.

“We still haven't raised our prices, and are making less profit. But I’m not sure how long we can keep up if they keep increasing the prices for ingredients”, he further said.

Opened in March 2014, the restaurant is affiliated with foodpanda, Hungrynaki, and Pathao, if you want to order in.

Verdict

The delicious and authentic Indian dishes are worth a visit to Tarka, and if you cannot visit their Banani flagship, Tarka Express is available at several major food courts in the capital.