In December, I embarked on a journey to Pakistan that held a deep personal significance. This voyage, which encompassed four cities, marked my return to a land I had not visited in 32 years. Among these cities was Lahore, a place where I had spent three formative years in the 1960s. The trip, though brief, spanning less than two weeks, was centred around a reunion with my distinguished colleagues from the Civil Service and Foreign Service of Pakistan, specifically the 1968 batch.
The primary purpose of my journey was to attend a reunion with my esteemed colleagues from the Civil Service and Foreign Service of Pakistan, the 1968 batch. This gathering, held in Lahore and Islamabad, was a celebration of our shared journey and the bonds forged over decades of service. The reunion was filled with heartfelt conversations, laughter, and reflections on our collective experiences.
My journey to Pakistan was a poignant and enriching experience. It was a trip down memory lane, revisiting places that held significant meaning in my life. The reunion with my colleagues was a testament to enduring bonds of friendship and the shared commitment to our people’s service. As I departed from Pakistan, I carried with me a renewed sense of connection to my past and a deep appreciation for the vibrant and diverse country that had shaped my journey. This trip, though short, left an indelible mark on my heart, reminding me of the enduring ties that bind us to our roots and our shared history.
The main reunion held in the old alma mater, the Civil Service Academy in Mall Road, Lahore, provided an opportunity to reconnect with friends who had played pivotal roles in shaping our careers and lives. The old academy building, however, is now repurposed as a State Guest House, which nonetheless allowed us to hold our reunion as a courtesy. It was a chance to honor the legacy of our service and to celebrate the achievements of our cohort. The camaraderie and mutual respect that had defined our time in service were rekindled, creating lasting memories.
Returning to Lahore was like stepping back in time. This city, where I had once walked the streets as a young civil servant, now presented itself with both familiar and unfamiliar facets. Lahore's rich history, vibrant culture, and bustling streets reminded me of the days spent exploring its historic landmarks and savouring its culinary delights. The city's blend of tradition and modernity was ever-present, making the experience both nostalgic and refreshing.
During my stay in Lahore, I made it a point to revisit some of my favorite haunts. The Walled City, The Lahore Fort, and Badshahi Mosque stood as grand as ever, their architectural splendour a testament to the city's Mughal heritage. We visited Lahore Fort and Badshahi Mosque in the evening this time, when both the places were lit by magnificent lights, with some live acts from the past including a classical dance. The evening ended with a fabulous and delectable Lahori kabab and curry dinner in a restaurant converted from a building in Heeramandi, the place once famous for dancing and singing by professionals.
The capital city, Islamabad, was the next stop on my itinerary. Known for its meticulously planned layout and serene ambiance, Islamabad presented a stark contrast to the hustle and bustle of Lahore. The city's lush greenery and modern architecture were a sight to behold. Reconnecting with old friends and colleagues in Islamabad provided an opportunity to reminisce about our shared experiences in the service of our two countries.
Rediscovering ancient heritage
My visit to Taxila was a journey through time, exploring the rich tapestry of history and culture that this ancient city offers. The visit was centred around the Taxila Museum and the stupas, both of which hold immense historical significance. The curator of the museum, who graciously received us, was a young lady who had experience beyond her years of curating such a magnificent place.
The Taxila Museum, which I had visited twice before in the late 60s during its initial construction, has transformed remarkably over the decades. Today, it stands as a testament to the rich heritage of the Gandhara civilization, housing an impressive collection of artifacts that date back to various periods of history. The museum’s well-curated exhibits provide a comprehensive insight into the art, culture, and the daily lives of the ancient inhabitants of Taxila.
Upon entering the museum, I was greeted by a vast array of sculptures, coins, pottery, and jewelry. Each exhibit tells a story of a bygone era, meticulously preserved and displayed. The Gandhara sculptures, with their intricate carvings and detailed expressions, particularly stood out, showcasing the confluence of Greek and Buddhist art that flourished in this region. The stucco and terracotta artifacts also provided a glimpse into the artistic endeavors of the past.
One of the highlights of the museum is the collection of Buddhist relics. The relics, including statues of Buddha, Bodhisattvas, and various deities, are a testament to the spread of Buddhism in this region. The serene expressions and graceful postures of these statues exude a sense of tranquility and reverence.
The stupas of Taxila are another highlight of the visit. These ancient structures, which served as Buddhist shrines, are scattered across the region, each with its own unique history and architectural style. The stupas, built to house relics and commemorate significant events, are a testament to the spiritual and cultural heritage of Taxila.
There are several stupas from where artifacts were collected and are open to visitors: Dharmarajika Stupa, the earliest and most important stupa built by Emperor Asoka; the Jaulian Monastery and Stupa with its well-preserved stupas, meditation cells, and assembly halls; and the Mohra Moradu Stupa, located in a secluded valley, which offers a glimpse into the monastic life of ancient Buddhist monks.
Peshawar
The final city on my itinerary was Peshawar, a city steeped in history and tradition. Peshawar's ancient bazaars, historic sites, and warm hospitality left a lasting impression. The city's rich Pashtun culture and its strategic location along the historic Silk Road were evident in its architecture and way of life.
A visit to the Peshawar Museum, with its impressive collection of Gandhara art, provided insight into the region's ancient heritage. The Qissa Khwani Bazaar, known as the "Storytellers' Bazaar," was a bustling marketplace where history seemed to come alive. The aroma of kababs and the sound of traditional music added to the enchanting atmosphere. We strolled through Qissa Khwani Bazar with its bustling markets, and Chitral Market viewing exquisite hand made shawls, Chitrali hats, and of course other artifacts made from silver and stone.
The bazar was lined with shoe shops selling Kabuli chappals that were made within the shops. Our visit in the bazar included having the famous Kehva tea in a tea stall, and a most delicious lunch of chapli kabab, salted kabab (cooked with only salt), and mutton (dumba) karahi in Nimak Mandi, called Food Street of Peshawar.
The Bangladesh-Pakistan relationship
During my visit to Pakistan, I had the opportunity to engage with a diverse cross-section of people through various receptions, lunches, and dinners. The individuals I encountered included senior government officials, both retired and active, educationists, businesspeople, and politicians. These interactions provided a comprehensive insight into the economic and political climate of the country, the role of the army, and the intricate relationship between Pakistan and Bangladesh.
Throughout the visit, the conversations I had provided a rich tapestry of perspectives and insights. Meeting with senior government officials allowed me to understand the policies and administrative challenges faced by the country. The discussions with educationists shed light on the evolving educational landscape and the efforts to improve literacy and educational standards in Pakistan. Businesspeople shared their experiences and challenges in navigating the economic environment, while politicians provided a glimpse into the political dynamics and aspirations for the future.
A significant portion of our discussions revolved around the economic and political situation in Pakistan. The economic challenges, including inflation and unemployment, were highlighted as major concerns. However, there was also a sense of optimism about the potential for economic growth and development, with ongoing efforts to attract foreign investment and improve infrastructure.
On the political front, the role of the army in Pakistan's governance and its influence on political decisions was a topic of considerable interest. The interlocutors shared their views on the complexities of civil-military relations and the need for a balanced approach to ensure stability and progress. Despite past political unrest, the current political environment was described as more stable, which has created an atmosphere conducive to economic development and regional cooperation.
The relationship between Pakistan and Bangladesh was another focal point of our discussions. One striking observation was the relative ignorance of the younger generation in Pakistan about the tragic events of 1971, much of which has not been adequately covered in textbooks. This gap in historical knowledge underscores the need for a more comprehensive and honest portrayal of the past to foster mutual understanding and reconciliation.
Despite this, I found a remarkably positive attitude among the people towards Bangladesh. There was a genuine appreciation for Bangladesh's economic development and its achievements in various sectors. My interlocutors expressed great hope for mutual cooperation in all areas, especially given the more cordial political environment now prevailing in Bangladesh. This positive outlook suggests a growing recognition of the benefits of regional collaboration and the potential for strengthening ties between the two nations.
Looking ahead, there is a strong desire among the people I met for enhanced cooperation between Pakistan and Bangladesh. They envision collaboration in areas such as trade, education, technology, and cultural exchange. The hope is that by building on shared interests and fostering a spirit of partnership, both countries can work together to address common challenges and achieve sustainable development.
My visit to Pakistan provided valuable insights into the country's socio-political landscape and its relationship with Bangladesh. The interactions I had with a wide range of individuals revealed a nuanced and multifaceted picture of Pakistan, characterized by challenges but also opportunities for growth and cooperation. The positive attitude towards Bangladesh and the desire for mutual collaboration bode well for the future of Pakistan-Bangladesh relations. It is my hope that these interactions will contribute to a deeper understanding and a stronger partnership between our two nations.
Ziauddin Choudhury has worked in the higher civil service of Bangladesh early in his career, and later for the World Bank in the US.
